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Dolma (Azerbaijani Stuffed Vine Leaves)

Dolma (Azerbaijani Stuffed Vine Leaves)

Azerbaijan's stuffed vine leaves, claimed as the national dish in 2017 and added to UNESCO's list of Intangible Cultural Heritage. You start by soaking brined vine leaves in warm water for twenty minutes to leach out the salt, then build a filling of raw lamb mince with rinsed short-grain rice, finely chopped onion, fresh mint and dill, butter, salt and pepper. Each leaf gets a teaspoon of filling and rolls into a tight cigar. The rolls pack in a single layer in a heavy pot, then a second and third layer perpendicular to the first, like a brickwork pattern that holds them together as they cook. Stock and a splash of sumac water pour in to barely cover, an inverted plate weighs everything down so the dolma keep their shape, and the lot simmers slowly for fifty minutes. Plated on a platter with thick garlic yogurt alongside for dipping.

Azerbaijan 2 hours Serves6
Doro Wat

Doro Wat

Ethiopia's national dish, the spiced chicken stew that turns up at every wedding, Easter feast and Christmas table, and the one dish a cook is judged on. The foundation is the onion - you cook it down slowly for nearly an hour into a deep dark base, and this is the step that decides whether the wat is great or merely acceptable. Berbere (the Ethiopian spice blend of chilli, fenugreek, ginger and a dozen others) and niter kibbeh (spiced clarified butter, the dish's defining fat) fold in. Chicken thighs and legs simmer in the deep red sauce, and hard-boiled eggs join late, scored with a knife so they take on the colour and the flavour. Eaten communally from a single platter, with injera flatbread torn into pieces to scoop the stew. No cutlery, no individual plates, hands clean before the meal.

Ethiopian 2 hours Serves4-6
Gratin Dauphinois

Gratin Dauphinois

Waxy potatoes (Yukon Gold, Charlotte, or any low-starch variety) are peeled and sliced very thinly, 2-3 mm. A wide shallow gratin dish (or oven-safe heavy pan) is rubbed all over with a halved garlic clove, then heavily buttered. A cream-and-milk mixture warms in a saucepan with crushed garlic, salt, pepper, and a generous grating of nutmeg, brought just to a simmer, then strained. Potatoes layer in the dish, overlapping like shingles, with a sprinkle of salt and a few grinds of pepper between layers. The infused cream pours over to come up to (not over) the top layer. Baked at 160°C for about 90 minutes until the potatoes are fork-tender and the top is bubbling and golden-brown.

Sides 1 hour 50 minutes Serves6
Jasha Maru

Jasha Maru

The Bhutanese weeknight chicken stew, the dish a Thimphu cook turns to after a long day. You joint a whole bone-in chicken and stew it with onion, tomato, plenty of fresh garlic and ginger, three or four green chillies, and butter or vegetable oil with a splash of water. The cook is fast: a brief sear to colour the meat, a simmer with the tomato until the chicken is cooked through and falling off the bone, and a finish with chopped coriander and spring onion just before serving. What you get back is a brothy, fresh, gently spicy chicken dish that sits somewhere between Indian and East Asian cookery, which is exactly where Bhutan sits geographically. Eaten with red rice, perhaps a small bowl of ema datshi on the side for whoever wants to push the heat further.

Bhutanese 50 minutes Serves4
Kabsa

Kabsa

Saudi Arabia's national dish, the one platter you'll meet at almost every gathering from family lunch through wedding banquet. You brown chicken pieces or lamb shoulder hard in a heavy pot, then build a base of onion, garlic and ginger softened in the same fat, with tomato and a spoonful of baharat (or a dedicated kabsa spice mix) blooming until the kitchen fills with cardamom and cinnamon. The protein simmers in tomato and stock until it's tender and pulling away from the bone, then long-grain rice goes in to cook absorption-style in the same liquid, drinking up every layer of flavour the broth carries. You finish with almonds toasted in butter, raisins plumped briefly, and a fresh salsa of tomato, onion, chilli and parsley spooned on the side to cut the richness. Eaten communally from the centre platter, with hands or a long spoon.

Arabian 1 hour 35 minutes Serves6
Kabuli Pulao

Kabuli Pulao

Kabuli pulao is Afghanistan's national dish, the centrepiece of every wedding, Eid and important Friday lunch: a layered pilaf of long-grain rice, slow-braised lamb, sweet carrot strands and butter-plumped raisins, all steam-finished together in one pot. You brown lamb shoulder hard, then braise it in spiced stock until the meat slips off the bone (that stock becomes the rice's cooking liquid). Carrots cut into matchsticks fry slowly in butter and sugar until they are golden and glassy. Raisins plump in butter. The rice parboils, then layers in the pot: lamb at the bottom, rice piled on top in a dome, drizzles of stock through the dome, lid clamped on tight. Twenty-five minutes of steam-cook and the rice emerges grain-separate and fragrant, ready to mound onto a platter with the carrots and raisins scattered across the top.

Afghanistan 2 hours 30 minutes Serves6
Lahori Chana Pulao

Lahori Chana Pulao

Whole chickpeas are soaked overnight and simmered until tender (or pressure-cooked). The chickpea cooking liquor is measured and reserved as part of the rice cooking liquid. A fried-onion base is built in ghee with whole spices, ginger-garlic paste and ground spices, and the cooked chickpeas are folded in. Soaked basmati is toasted in the base, then the measured cooking liquor goes in for the steam. A scatter of fried onion and coriander finishes.

Rice 2 hours 15 minutes Serves4-6
Lahori Mutton Karahi

Lahori Mutton Karahi

Bone-in lamb is browned in ghee with a small handful of whole spices, then ginger-garlic paste and tomato are added in two stages: first chopped, to break down into a base sauce, then sliced, to give texture at the end. The dish cooks uncovered the entire time, which is what defines Lahori karahi (the gravy reduces by half and concentrates). Green chilli, fresh ginger and coriander finish; a tablespoon of butter or ghee makes the slick on top.

Lahori 1 hour 30 minutes Serves4-6
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