Desserts

2 recipes

Lugaimat

Lugaimat

The little golden dumpling that arrives on the table after iftar across the Khaleej, sometimes piled in a glass dish next to the dates and the qahwa, always disappearing faster than the cook can replace them. You mix a slack batter of flour, cornflour, yeast and milk powder with cardamom and saffron, then leave it to rest for an hour until it bubbles and puffs. Small balls of it drop into 170°C oil and fry for three or four minutes until they're deep gold and just hollow inside. While they're still warm you dunk them into date syrup or a saffron-cardamom sugar syrup so the outside crackles and the centre soaks the sweetness up. A sprinkle of sesame on top, eaten with the fingers, ideally with a tiny cup of cardamom coffee to cut the sugar.

1 hour 35 minutes Serves6
Maamoul

Maamoul

The cookie that arrives in tins at every Middle Eastern festival worth marking, baked for Eid al-Fitr, Eid al-Adha, Christmas and Easter alike across Lebanese, Syrian, Iraqi and Gulf households. You make a short dough of fine semolina and plain flour with butter, milk and orange blossom water, then let it rest overnight so the semolina hydrates fully and the dough turns silky. Three classic fillings sit alongside: dates pounded with cinnamon and cloves, walnuts mixed with sugar and rose water, pistachios with sugar and a drop more orange blossom. Each cookie wraps a teaspoon of filling, gets pressed into a carved wooden mould (or scored by hand with the back of a knife), then bakes pale gold so the crust stays sandy and the filling stays soft. A dust of icing sugar at the end. Tea or coffee on the side, and a tin kept on the shelf for visitors who haven't yet been told about your batch.

1 hour 25 minutes Serves30