Horn of Africa cooking shaped by trade with the Arab world, India and Italian colonial history. Xawaash (a spice blend of cumin, coriander, cardamom, cinnamon, black pepper and turmeric) seasons nearly every meal. Rice (bariis), spaghetti from the Italian era, pancakes (anjero) and chapati form the carbohydrate base; lamb, goat and beef the protein. Slow-spiced stews, sambusa (samosas), grilled meats and the strong sweet tea (shaah) define the table; halwo and xalwo for the sweet finish.
A simple batter of plain flour, semolina, yeast and warm water is left to ferment overnight; this gives anjero its characteristic sourness and the bubbles that make the texture. The next day, batter ladles onto a hot pan and cooks just on one side, the bottom turns golden, the top sets with a lattice of bubble-craters. Stack between cloths to steam soft.
Cornflour is whisked into water; sugar dissolves with saffron; the lot bubbles together with ghee being drizzled in slowly. The mixture goes from opaque to translucent amber over 25 minutes; the texture goes from runny to gooey-thick like soft caramel. Cardamom and peanuts fold in at the end; everything pours into a tray to set.
Spring roll wrappers fold around a filling of cooked lentils, peas, onion, garlic, ginger and a Somali spice mix (xawaash) of cumin, coriander, cardamom and cinnamon. Each is folded into a tight triangle, sealed with a flour-water paste, and deep-fried until golden.
Beef tenderloin or sirloin is cubed small. A spice mix of cumin, coriander, cardamom and cinnamon, Somalia's xawaash, seasons it. The cubes sear quickly in a hot pan with onion and pepper; tomato paste deepens; chilli and butter finish. Coriander piles on at the table.