Lump tamarind is soaked in hot water and strained for a thick brown extract. The extract is cooked over low heat with palm jaggery (or dark brown sugar), ginger, salt and a mix of spices (cumin, fennel, black salt, chilli) until it thickens to a syrup that coats a spoon. The chutney sits between syrup and jam, with a slick of oil if you cook it long enough. Cools to a thick, glossy dipping consistency.
A bunch of mint and a bunch of coriander are blended with green chilli, garlic, ginger, lemon juice, cumin and a small handful of roasted gram (for body). Thick natural yogurt is folded in at the end. The chutney finishes bright green, sharp and cool; designed to cut through the richness of chargha, boti and chapli kebabs.
Red onion is sliced as thin as possible (mandoline is ideal). The slices are soaked in iced water with a small splash of vinegar for 15 minutes, which kills the raw sulphurous bite and crisps them up. Drained and patted dry, the slices are tossed with lemon juice, chaat masala, salt, a pinch of sugar and a small handful of finely chopped fresh coriander or mint. Pickled green chillies on the side complete it.
Split yellow moong dal (or chana dal, or a mix) is rinsed and pressure-cooked or simmered with turmeric until completely soft. The dal is mashed lightly to a porridge consistency. A second pan fries ghee with whole cumin, garlic, sliced green chilli, dried red chilli and curry leaves until the garlic just turns golden. The hot tarka is poured over the dal with a dramatic sizzle; coriander and lemon finish.