Mughal-Persian-Punjabi crossroads cuisine, distinguished from Indian by stronger Mughal influence and slow-cooked meat traditions. Nihari (overnight-braised beef shank), haleem (lentils, wheat and meat pounded together), karahi (wok-cooked spiced meat), elaborate Sindhi and Karachi biryanis, chapli kebabs and seekh kebabs anchor the savoury table; gulab jamun, kheer and barfi close the meal. Garam masala, ginger, garlic, kasuri methi (dried fenugreek), Kashmiri chilli and saffron drive the seasoning.
Beef shank with bones browns in ghee; onions cook to deep golden; whole spices bloom. Stock simmers everything for 3-4 hours until the meat is fork-tender. A wheat-flour slurry whisks in to thicken to a glossy, slightly silky gravy. Tarka of fried garlic and Kashmiri chilli pours over hot. Served with naan and a heavy plate of garnishes.
A whole chicken is jointed into 8 bone-in pieces (or 8 thighs). Oil heats in a wide karahi or wok; chicken sears on all sides for colour. Crushed ginger and garlic go in for 1 minute. Halved tomatoes (yes, half-tomatoes, not chopped) tumble in; the lid clamps on; the chicken steam-cooks for 20 minutes in the tomato juices. The lid lifts; the tomato skins come off; the sauce reduces to a thick deep-orange masala. Whole green chillies, freshly crushed black pepper, ground cumin and a dollop of yogurt stir in. Coriander and slivered ginger finish.
Cracked wheat (daleya), pearl barley, chana dal, masoor dal, moong dal and urad dal soak overnight together. Mutton on the bone (or beef shin) simmers separately with ginger-garlic paste, ground spices, onion and salt for 2 hours until tender. The drained grains and lentils join; everything simmers 2 more hours, beating periodically with a wooden masher (or blitzing in batches with a stick blender) until the meat strands break apart and integrate with the grain. The base goes intensely smooth, almost the texture of porridge. Off heat, fried onions, ghee-and-cumin tarka, julienned ginger, lemon, chilli and herbs finish each bowl.
Lamb shanks (or bone-in shoulder pieces) brown in mustard oil and ghee with sliced onion. Ginger-garlic paste, ground spices (red chilli, turmeric, coriander, cumin, fennel) and a whole-spice nihari masala go in. The meat braises in a covered pot 4 hours stovetop (or 1 hour pressure cooker) until very tender. The cooking liquid strains; a wheat-flour slurry whisks in to thicken; the meat returns; the stew finishes 30 minutes. A sizzling tarka of fried onion and ghee finishes. Garnished hot.
Onion fries in oil until deep gold; ginger-garlic paste joins and is fried for 1 minute. Ground spices (cumin, coriander, turmeric, chilli powder, garam masala) toast in the oil. Chopped tomatoes go in and cook down 8 minutes. Chicken pieces brown briefly. Pre-cooked chickpeas (or tinned, drained) join with water; everything simmers covered 25 minutes. Fresh coriander, green chilli and slivered ginger finish.
Cleaned lamb or goat trotters are blanched, scraped clean and then simmered slowly with onion, ginger-garlic, ground spices (turmeric, chilli, coriander, cumin, garam masala), bay leaves and cardamom for 6 hours over the lowest heat. Pressure cookers cut this to 2 hours. The broth that results is thick and gelatinous; the meat on the bones is dark and luscious. Finished with a fried-onion-and-cumin tarka. Garnished generously with fresh ginger, green chilli, coriander and lemon.
Mutton on the bone marinates for 2 hours in yogurt, ginger-garlic paste, ground spices (red chilli, turmeric, coriander, cumin, garam masala), mint, coriander and salt. Sliced onions fry slowly in oil to deep gold, then crispy, and drain on paper (some go in the marinade, some on top of the biryani). The marinated mutton browns; tomatoes go in; the meat braises for 45 minutes until tender. Basmati rice parboils with whole spices and salt to 70% done; drains. The layering: mutton at bottom, half the rice, fried onions and prunes and green chillies, the remaining rice, more onions, saffron-milk and ghee on top. Dum cook for 25 minutes sealed.
