Austrian

Hearty cooking shaped by the reach of the Habsburg Empire. Wiener schnitzel (veal pounded thin, breaded, fried in butter) is the unofficial national dish; tafelspitz (boiled beef with horseradish), gulasch (borrowed from Hungary and refined) and a long catalogue of dumplings - bread, potato, semolina - fill out the savoury table. The pastry tradition is world-class: apfelstrudel layered as thin as parchment, sachertorte with its glossy chocolate glaze, kaiserschmarrn (torn pancake with stewed fruit), linzer torte. Vienna's coffee house culture - introduced after the Turkish siege of 1683 - is UNESCO-listed and still the centre of social life.

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Recipes

Austrian Goulash

Austrian Goulash

The Viennese answer to its Hungarian cousin: slower, deeper, almost spoonable, the gravy as dark as treacle from hours of careful reduction rather than from any thickener. The defining technique is a one-to-one ratio of onion to beef by weight, which sounds wrong until you taste what it does. The onions cook down to a sweet, brown, almost-marmalade paste before the paprika and meat ever join them, and that paste is the body of the sauce. You use beef shin or chuck and simmer it very slowly in this paprika-onion base with stock, garlic, marjoram, caraway, vinegar and tomato until the gravy clings to every cube. Lard is the right fat. No flour. No quick fixes. Serve with bread dumplings (Semmelknödel), spätzle or thick slices of dark rye, and pickled cucumbers on the side to cut the richness. A bowl that warms you from the centre out on a winter night.

2 hours 50 minutes Serves4-6
Tafelspitz

Tafelspitz

The Habsburg Sunday lunch, said to have been Emperor Franz Joseph's favourite dish, and still the proper-occasion centrepiece of any Viennese family table. You poach a whole 1.5 kg piece of beef rump cap very gently for two and a half to three hours in a stock built around onions, root vegetables and marrow bones, until the meat is fork-tender but still sliceable. The technique is the opposite of a roast: no browning, no sear, all the flavour pulled out gently into the broth and held in the slow-cooking beef. Two courses come from the one pot. The clarified broth comes to the table first, scattered with chives and served with semolina dumplings or the fine pancake strips called Frittaten. Then the beef itself is sliced and presented with apple-horseradish sauce, a sharp green chive sauce, crisp pan-roasted Bratkartoffeln and creamed spinach. A glass of cool grüner veltliner alongside; Sunday afternoon in front of you.

3 hours 20 minutes Serves6