Thai

Cooking that balances four flavours in every dish: sweet, sour, salty and spicy. Built on lemongrass, galangal, kaffir lime leaf, fish sauce, palm sugar and chilli, often rounded with coconut milk. Pounded curry pastes, fast wok work, raw salads dressed with lime and fish sauce, and aromatic broths like tom yum show the spread.

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Recipes

Chicken with Cashews

Chicken with Cashews

This is a hugely popular dish at Thai restaurants and takeaways, and my family love it. It is important to cut the chicken pieces so that they are about the same size as the cashews (although this is more for presentation as large chunks also work fine). You can mix the sauce and fry the cashews, chillies and chicken a day or so in advance, making this a dish you can cook up very quickly after work with little mess. The first time I tried making this recipe, I burnt the cashews and chillies. Don’t make the same mistake or you’ll have to start all over again. They don’t take long to colour in the oil and cashews aren’t cheap, so keep an eye on them. Although there’s nothing stopping you from doing so, the dried and fried chillies are not meant to be eaten. I like to serve this curry with jasmine rice.

30 minutes Serves4
Gai Yang

Gai Yang

Gai yang ("grilled chicken") is one of the cornerstones of Isaan cooking, the cuisine of north-eastern Thailand that has spread across the whole country and into Thai restaurants worldwide. The defining flavour is coriander root, an ingredient barely used in Western cooking but central to Thai marinades. Pounded in a granite mortar with garlic, white peppercorns and a pinch of salt, it forms an aromatic paste that's then mixed with fish sauce, oyster sauce and a touch of sugar. The chicken is butterflied (spatchcocked) so it lies flat on the grill, marinated for at least 4 hours, then cooked slowly over moderate charcoal. The proper Isaan technique is patient: 30 minutes or more, turning often, sometimes pressed flat between two bamboo splints, so the skin slowly crisps and the meat takes on smoke without burning. The flavour is savoury-funky from fish sauce, peppery-warm from white pepper, deeply garlic-and-herb from the paste, with no chilli in the marinade itself; heat comes from the dipping sauce. Difficulty is low for the home cook: a good mortar or a small food processor makes the paste in 2 minutes, butterflying a chicken is a single cut down the backbone, and any covered grill or kettle does the cooking. Eaten by hand with balls of sticky rice and dipped into nam jim jaew, the toasted-rice-and-tamarind dipping sauce.

5 hours Serves4
Garlic Prawn Pad See Ew

Garlic Prawn Pad See Ew

"Pad see ew" translates literally as "stir-fried with soy sauce", and that soy is the heart of the dish: dark, sweet and clinging to wide rice noodles charred at the edges in a hot wok. Broccolini stands in for traditional Chinese broccoli (kai lan), the prawns are given a brief garlic-soy marinade, and an egg is folded through right at the end. A sharp homemade chilli vinegar at the table is the traditional Thai counterweight to all that sweet soy.

15 minutes Serves2
Stir-Fried Beef in Oyster Sauce

Stir-Fried Beef in Oyster Sauce

On Thai menus this is often called ‘pad nam mun hoy’, which means fried with oyster sauce. There are many versions of Thai oyster sauce curries, but this beef version is right up there when it comes to popularity. Stir-fried beef in oyster sauce usually also comes served with mushrooms and my favourite variety for this recipe are straw mushrooms, but you could use any type you can find, wild mushrooms work really well. Serve with a hot bowl of jasmine rice.

30 minutes Serves4
Thai Green Curry (Vegetarian)

Thai Green Curry (Vegetarian)

A spice paste of green chillies and aromatics blends fresh (or starts from a good Thai paste with fresh additions). Coconut cream from the top of the can is cracked in the wok until oil splits out; paste fries; coconut milk loosens; vegetables, Thai aubergine, pea aubergine, bamboo shoots, broccoli, baby corn, go in by cook time. Tofu joins; the curry simmers briefly. Soy sauce (instead of fish sauce), palm sugar, lime leaves, Thai basil to finish.

50 minutes Serves4
Traditional Pad Thai

Traditional Pad Thai

Pad thai began as a 1930s government-promoted national dish during a campaign to reduce rice consumption, and has since become Thailand's best-known noodle export. The success of any version comes down to the sauce: equal parts fish sauce, tamarind and palm sugar, with a spoonful of finely chopped pickled radish for backbone. Once the sauce is mixed the wok work is fast, with soft rice noodles, chicken, tofu, dried shrimp and egg joining in quick succession before the dish is finished with peanuts, chives, lime and chilli at the table.

40 minutes Serves4