
Esquites
Mexican street-corn salad: charred corn kernels tossed with mayo, lime, chilli powder, cotija (or feta) and coriander. The dish elote becomes when you take it off the cob - same flavours, in a cup, eaten with a spoon. Smoky, spicy, salty, tangy all at once.
Overview
Corn kernels, fresh in season, frozen the rest of the year, are charred in a hot dry pan with a bit of oil until many kernels are blackened. Off the heat: mayo, sour cream, lime, garlic, chilli powder and cheese are folded through. Coriander and more cheese top each bowl.
Ingredients
- 600 g corn kernels (fresh from 4 cobs, or thawed frozen)
- 2 tablespoons vegetable oil
- 30 g unsalted butter
- 4 spring onions (sliced)
- 2 garlic cloves (crushed)
- 1 long green chilli (finely chopped) or jalapeño
- 100 g mayonnaise
- 100 g soured cream (or Mexican crema)
- 100 g cotija cheese (crumbled), or feta as substitute
- 2 limes (juice)
- 1 teaspoon chilli powder (or Tajín seasoning)
- ½ teaspoon smoked paprika
- ½ teaspoon salt
- Black pepper
- A small bunch of coriander (chopped)
- Lime wedges (to serve)
Method
Stage 1 - Char the corn
- Heat the oil and butter in a large heavy skillet over medium-high heat.
- Add the corn in a single layer; let it sit undisturbed 3-4 minutes - kernels should char.
- Stir; cook another 4-5 minutes, stirring occasionally, until many kernels are deeply blackened in spots and the rest are golden.
Stage 2 - Aromatics
- Reduce the heat to medium; add the spring onions, garlic and chilli.
- Cook 1 minute until fragrant.
Stage 3 - Combine
- Off the heat, stir in the mayonnaise, soured cream, lime juice, chilli powder, smoked paprika, salt and pepper.
- Fold in three-quarters of the cotija and most of the coriander.
Stage 4 - Serve
- Spoon into small bowls or cups.
- Top with the remaining cotija and coriander; dust with extra chilli powder.
- Serve with lime wedges to squeeze over.
Notes
- Char the corn properly: Pale yellow corn tossed with mayo is just creamed corn. The dish needs the smoky, blistered kernels.
- Cotija substitute: True cotija - Mexican aged cow's milk cheese, salty and crumbly - is sold at Latin grocers. Feta is the closest UK supermarket substitute; pecorino works in a pinch.
- Tajín: A Mexican seasoning of chilli, lime and salt; sold at Latin grocers and now many supermarkets. Sprinkle on top in addition to or instead of plain chilli powder.
Storage
- Best fresh. Refrigerated keeps 2 days but the corn loses crispness; eat cold from the fridge.
More like this
Chili Verde
Tomatillos, poblanos, jalapeños, garlic and onion roast under the grill until blackened in spots. Blended with coriander and lime to a green salsa. Pork shoulder cubes brown hard in a heavy pot, then simmer for 90 minutes in the green salsa with cumin, oregano and stock until the pork is fork-tender. Eaten with tortillas.
Tinga de Pollo
Chicken thighs are poached with onion, garlic and bay until just cooked, then shredded with two forks. A sauce is built separately: sliced onion is caramelised, then chipotles in adobo and tinned tomatoes are blended in and simmered down with the poaching liquor. The shredded chicken is folded back through the sauce so every shred picks up the smoke and acidity. Spoon onto warm tostadas with avocado, crema and crumbled queso fresco.
Birria
Birria is a Mexican braise of long, patient ambition. Originally a goat or lamb dish from Jalisco, it has long since adopted beef in much of Mexico and almost entirely in the popular taco version. The flavour comes from a layered chile base: guajillo for fruit and colour, ancho for raisin sweetness, pasilla for earthy depth, and a handful of arbol for a sharper heat. These are simmered with onion, garlic, cinnamon and peppercorns, blended smooth with chipotles in adobo and fire-roasted tomato, then poured over seared chuck and short rib for a long oven braise. Three hours later the meat is meltingly tender, sitting in a rust-red consomme that is the whole point: ladled over the shredded beef in a bowl, scattered with raw onion, cilantro and lime, or used to dip crisp taco shells for the now-iconic quesabirria. The recipe takes time but very little technique; almost everything happens unattended in the oven. Plan ahead and make it a day in advance so the flavours settle and the fat lifts cleanly off the top before you reheat.
Cochinita Pibil
Pork shoulder is rubbed with a paste of achiote, orange and lime juices, garlic, oregano and warming spices, then left to marinate overnight. The pork is wrapped in banana leaves and roasted low and slow until it shreds with two forks. The pibil sits in its own bright red juices; warm corn tortillas and habanero-bright pickled red onions are the only accompaniments needed.