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Baghali Polo Ba Mahiche

Lamb shanks brown hard; cook for 2 hours 30 minutes with onion, garlic, turmeric, cinnamon and saffron in a covered pot with a small amount of stock until fork-tender. Meanwhile, basmati rinses and soaks for 1 hour. Frozen (or fresh, podded) broad beans simmer briefly until tender; the rice parboils for 6 minutes in heavily salted water; drains. The rice layers in the cooking pot with the broad beans, dill and saffron: bottom oil-and-rice for tahdig; then a mixed layer of rice + beans + dill; another rice-and-bean-and-dill layer; topped with rice and saffron-water; lid-wrapped-in-towel; steam for 40 minutes. Plated with the lamb shanks alongside.

Persian 4 hours 30 minutes Serves4

Bamia Iraqi

Lamb shoulder is browned hard; onion is softened; garlic, baharat and tomato paste join. Stock, tamarind, dried lime and tinned tomato deglaze. The lamb is braised for 75 minutes. Small whole okra goes in the last 25 minutes (long enough to soften, short enough not to disintegrate). Taqliya, crushed garlic and coriander sizzled in oil, is drizzled over at the end.

Iraq 2 hours Serves4

Chelo Kabab Koobideh

Mince mixes with very finely-grated onion (squeezed dry), salt, pepper, turmeric and a hit of saffron-water. The mixture chills, then forms onto wide flat skewers in long sausage shapes. Charcoal grills are traditional; a hot grill pan or barbecue works at home. The kababs grill for 3-4 minutes per side; whole tomatoes char alongside; rice piles on the plate; everything assembles together.

Persian 1 hour 45 minutes Serves4

Dolma (Azerbaijani Stuffed Vine Leaves)

Azerbaijan's stuffed vine leaves, claimed as the national dish in 2017 and added to UNESCO's list of Intangible Cultural Heritage. You start by soaking brined vine leaves in warm water for twenty minutes to leach out the salt, then build a filling of raw lamb mince with rinsed short-grain rice, finely chopped onion, fresh mint and dill, butter, salt and pepper. Each leaf gets a teaspoon of filling and rolls into a tight cigar. The rolls pack in a single layer in a heavy pot, then a second and third layer perpendicular to the first, like a brickwork pattern that holds them together as they cook. Stock and a splash of sumac water pour in to barely cover, an inverted plate weighs everything down so the dolma keep their shape, and the lot simmers slowly for fifty minutes. Plated on a platter with thick garlic yogurt alongside for dipping.

Azerbaijan 2 hours Serves6

Domoda

Chicken thighs (or lamb) are browned, onions and tomato cooked down with garlic and a single whole chilli, then the meat simmers in stock until tender. A loose peanut paste is stirred in for the final 20 minutes, kept thin enough to ladle. Sweet potato or pumpkin softens in the sauce. A spoon of lime juice at the end balances the richness.

Senegalese 1 hour 15 minutes Serves4-6

Kabsa

Saudi Arabia's national dish, the one platter you'll meet at almost every gathering from family lunch through wedding banquet. You brown chicken pieces or lamb shoulder hard in a heavy pot, then build a base of onion, garlic and ginger softened in the same fat, with tomato and a spoonful of baharat (or a dedicated kabsa spice mix) blooming until the kitchen fills with cardamom and cinnamon. The protein simmers in tomato and stock until it's tender and pulling away from the bone, then long-grain rice goes in to cook absorption-style in the same liquid, drinking up every layer of flavour the broth carries. You finish with almonds toasted in butter, raisins plumped briefly, and a fresh salsa of tomato, onion, chilli and parsley spooned on the side to cut the richness. Eaten communally from the centre platter, with hands or a long spoon.

Arabian 1 hour 35 minutes Serves6

Kabuli Pulao

Kabuli pulao is Afghanistan's national dish, the centrepiece of every wedding, Eid and important Friday lunch: a layered pilaf of long-grain rice, slow-braised lamb, sweet carrot strands and butter-plumped raisins, all steam-finished together in one pot. You brown lamb shoulder hard, then braise it in spiced stock until the meat slips off the bone (that stock becomes the rice's cooking liquid). Carrots cut into matchsticks fry slowly in butter and sugar until they are golden and glassy. Raisins plump in butter. The rice parboils, then layers in the pot: lamb at the bottom, rice piled on top in a dome, drizzles of stock through the dome, lid clamped on tight. Twenty-five minutes of steam-cook and the rice emerges grain-separate and fragrant, ready to mound onto a platter with the carrots and raisins scattered across the top.

Afghanistan 2 hours 30 minutes Serves6

Lahori Mutton Karahi

Bone-in lamb is browned in ghee with a small handful of whole spices, then ginger-garlic paste and tomato are added in two stages: first chopped, to break down into a base sauce, then sliced, to give texture at the end. The dish cooks uncovered the entire time, which is what defines Lahori karahi (the gravy reduces by half and concentrates). Green chilli, fresh ginger and coriander finish; a tablespoon of butter or ghee makes the slick on top.

Lahori 1 hour 30 minutes Serves4-6

Mafé

Bone-in beef or lamb is browned, then simmered with onions, garlic, tomato and stock. Smooth peanut butter is whisked in halfway and the stew thickens to a velvety coating. Chunks of cassava, sweet potato and cabbage cook in the sauce towards the end. Serve over plain steamed white rice.

Senegalese 2 hours 5 minutes Serves6

Quzi

A bone-in lamb shoulder rubs with baharat, dried lime, garlic and yogurt; sits overnight; roasts long and slow until the meat falls from the bone. Saffron rice cooks separately with onion, raisins and toasted nuts. Everything assembles on a wide platter, rice mounded under the lamb, sauce spooned over, almonds and pine nuts scattered.

Iraq 4 hours 30 minutes Serves6-8

Roast Leg of Lamb

The Sunday lamb of the British table, the centrepiece of an Easter lunch and the dish a mother-in-law judges you on. You bring a 2-2.5 kg bone-in leg to room temperature first (essential - cold meat into a hot oven cooks unevenly), score the fat, then stud the leg with slivers of garlic and tuck rosemary tips into the cuts. Smear with oil, salt and a paste of crushed garlic. The lamb starts hot to colour the skin, then drops to a low roast and pulls when a probe in the thickest part reads 55°C for pink or 60°C for medium. A full twenty-minute rest is non-negotiable; this is when the juices settle back into the meat and the slices stay pink rather than weeping grey. While it rests you build a simple jus from the pan drippings, deglazed with wine and reduced down. Roast potatoes, mint sauce, peas; a glass of claret in your hand and the family gathered.

British 3 hours 10 minutes Serves8

Yakhneh Bamia

Lamb chunks are browned hard; onion is softened in the same pot; tomato and pomegranate molasses build a tangy base; the lamb returns with stock and braises for 1 hour. Small frozen or fresh okra is added in the last 30 minutes (long enough to soften, short enough not to disintegrate). Crushed garlic and chopped coriander, sizzled briefly in butter at the end (taqliya), go on top.

Syria 2 hours 5 minutes Serves4

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