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Chicken Inasal

Chicken Inasal

Chicken inasal is the pride of Bacolod City on Negros Occidental, where streetside grill houses serve nothing else: trays of chicken parts skewered on bamboo, smoking over long coal pits, with the cook brushing on bright orange annatto oil every few turns. The marinade is what marks it as Filipino: calamansi (a small, sour citrus halfway between lime and tangerine), cane vinegar, ginger, lemongrass, garlic and a generous slug of black pepper. The annatto oil (atsuete) is just neutral oil warmed gently with annatto seeds until it stains a vivid orange-red; this is the dish's signature look and a mild peppery flavour. Basting starts halfway through cooking so the colour goes onto skin that's already partly cooked, and continues right up to the moment the chicken leaves the grill. Difficulty for a home cook is low; the only special ingredients are calamansi (lime juice plus a touch of orange juice substitutes well) and annatto seeds (sometimes sold as achiote, found in any Filipino or Latin American shop). The flavour profile is sharp, herbal, slightly smoky, with a peppery edge from black pepper rather than chilli, and ribbon-thin lemongrass perfume running through everything. Service is non-negotiable: a heap of garlic rice (sinangag), a saucer of toyomansi (soy-calamansi-vinegar dipping sauce with sliced chillies), and the cook's pot of warm annatto oil for the table.

Filipino 4 hours 50 minutes Serves4
Chicken Satay with Peanut Sauce

Chicken Satay with Peanut Sauce

I’m a big fan of Thai chicken satay with peanut sauce. Although it isn’t necessary, it is best to marinate the chicken for at least a day. You could get away with 30 minutes but a longer marinating time will get you much tastier results. As the chicken soaks up that incredible marinade, it not only tenderizes it but makes it much juicier when cooked. This recipe could be used with thinly sliced pork or beef, both are also popular at Thai restaurants and takeaways. Pork is the meat of choice in Thailand but chicken is the most popular in the UK. I also like to serve this dish with cucumber and chilli relish.

Starters 35 minutes Serves6
Kabsa

Kabsa

Saudi Arabia's national dish, the one platter you'll meet at almost every gathering from family lunch through wedding banquet. You brown chicken pieces or lamb shoulder hard in a heavy pot, then build a base of onion, garlic and ginger softened in the same fat, with tomato and a spoonful of baharat (or a dedicated kabsa spice mix) blooming until the kitchen fills with cardamom and cinnamon. The protein simmers in tomato and stock until it's tender and pulling away from the bone, then long-grain rice goes in to cook absorption-style in the same liquid, drinking up every layer of flavour the broth carries. You finish with almonds toasted in butter, raisins plumped briefly, and a fresh salsa of tomato, onion, chilli and parsley spooned on the side to cut the richness. Eaten communally from the centre platter, with hands or a long spoon.

Arabian 1 hour 35 minutes Serves6
Saleeg

Saleeg

A Hijazi speciality that sits closer to a savoury rice porridge than to any other rice dish on the peninsula. You poach a whole chicken in a stock built around onion, cardamom, dried lime, mastic and bay for forty-five minutes, then strain the stock and reduce it. Short-grain rice cooks slowly in equal parts of that reduced stock and warm whole milk, stirred often over thirty-five minutes until it reaches a creamy, almost-risotto consistency. The dairy is what makes this dish what it is. The chicken comes out, gets brushed with butter and finished briefly under the grill so its skin turns gold, then sits on top of the rice for serving. Brown butter drizzled over, a heavy crack of black pepper, eaten with bread torn at the table. Comfort food of Mecca and Medina, traditionally served at Hijazi weddings and family gatherings.

Arabian 1 hour 45 minutes Serves4