Japanese

Precise, restrained cooking that prizes seasonality, simple knife work and the umami of dashi, miso and soy. Flavours come from soy sauce, mirin, sake, miso, kombu, bonito and the bright counterpoints of yuzu, ginger and pickled vegetables. Defining techniques include the long, slow extraction of dashi, careful poaching and simmering, the high-heat sear of yakimono, and the layered seasoning of a proper ramen broth and tare.

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Recipes

Tantanmen

Tantanmen

Three components assemble at service. (1) Niku miso: ground pork stir-fries with garlic, ginger, doubanjiang and miso, then sweetened with sugar and finished with sesame oil. (2) Tare (concentrated seasoning paste): white sesame paste (tahini), soy sauce, rice vinegar, chilli oil, miso paste, garlic, whisked together. (3) Hot soup: chicken stock with a touch more sesame paste and chilli oil swirled in. Ramen noodles cook separately. Bowls layered: tare in the bottom, hot soup ladled over, cooked noodles, mound of niku miso, blanched bok choy, soft-boiled marinated egg, scallions, extra chilli oil.

55 minutes Serves2