A small quantity of minced mutton and diced onion fries gently in fat. Mutton stock (or water) goes in; the broth simmers for 10 minutes. Plain flour is rubbed with a few drops of water between the palms to make tiny crumb-sized lumps; these scatter into the simmering broth, where they cook for 5 minutes into soft pearls. Salt and pepper to season. A scatter of fresh dill or spring onion finishes the bowl.
Mutton on the bone, shoulder, breast, leg in big pieces, is placed in a deep pot. Cold water covers. Salt is added (heroically, about 1 tablespoon per litre). The pot comes to a boil; the surface is skimmed thoroughly; then it simmers, partially covered, until the meat is so tender it falls in big juicy pieces from the bone. The dish is piled onto a platter; the broth is reserved and drunk in cups alongside.
Mutton on the bone simmers for 1 hour 15 minutes with onion, bay and a few peppercorns. Bones lift out; meat is shredded. Hand-cut noodles drop into the simmering broth with diced carrot and onion. 6 minutes later the noodles are tender and the dish is done. Salted to taste, garnished with chopped spring onion or dill.