Colombian cooking is regional and varied: bandeja paisa from Antioquia, ajiaco from Bogotá, sancocho along the coasts. Maize is foundational - arepas at every meal, mazamorra at breakfast, tamales for celebrations. Plantain (green and ripe), beans, rice, beef and chicken anchor most plates; aji (a coriander-and-chilli table sauce) and arequipe (Colombian dulce de leche) sit at opposite ends of the meal. Hogao (the tomato-onion sofrito) starts nearly every savoury dish.
Chicken poaches with onion, garlic and herbs into a clean, golden broth. The first potato (sabanera, or floury maris piper) drops in to start; the small yellow papa criolla follows to break down and thicken; pastusa or red potatoes go in last to hold shape. Cobs of sweet corn cook in the same pot. Guascas, the dish's signature herb, adds at the very end. Each bowl tops with shredded chicken, avocado, capers and a generous spoon of cream; rice on the side.
Masarepa (pre-cooked, instant white maize flour, sold as "masarepa", "harina pan", or "P.A.N."), warm water and salt are mixed to a soft dough that rests for 5 minutes to hydrate. Cheese is folded in; the dough is shaped into discs about 1 cm thick. They are cooked in a dry hot pan first to set the surface, then given a thin coat of butter and cooked to deep golden on both sides. The cheese melts inside.
Each component cooks separately and arrives on the same wide platter: braised red beans (frijoles paisas); white long-grain rice; fried pork belly (chicharrón); grilled or fried chorizo; sliced grilled steak; ripe plantain fried sweet; an egg sunny-side up; ½ avocado; an arepa de maíz.
A whole hen (or chicken thighs and drumsticks if you can't get a stewing bird) simmers with aromatics for 90 minutes until tender. Cassava and plantain join for 30 minutes. Potato, sweet potato and corn-on-the-cob for the last 20. Coriander folds in. Served in deep bowls with rice on the side; the broth is poured over the rice, the meat eaten alongside.
Whole flank (or skirt) simmers in stock with aromatics 2 hours until tender enough to push apart with a fork but still holding shape. Left to cool. The cooking liquid reduces with sofrito (onion, tomato, garlic) and a splash of beer into a thick gravy. The meat lifts onto a tray, gets brushed with the gravy, then grills under high heat 5-7 minutes until the surface caramelises dark and crackly. Slice; ladle gravy over.
