Soups

Broths, bisques, chowders, and noodle soups.

49 recipes

Caldo Verde

Caldo Verde

This is the soup Portugal eats in winter and at every wedding, christening and Christmas Eve: a velvety potato base, a confetti of impossibly thin kale shredded in right at the end, and a few slices of chouriço floating on top to flavour the broth. You sweat onions in olive oil, simmer potatoes in stock until soft, blend the lot smooth, then drop the kale in for the final two minutes (which is when the colour brightens and the texture stays alive). Lay the chouriço on top, drizzle olive oil at the table, tear bread in. It is a five-ingredient soup that depends entirely on the quality of the olive oil and the kale being cut almost transparently thin, ribbon by ribbon.

50 minutes Serves6
Caribbean Chicken Soup

Caribbean Chicken Soup

Saturday-soup in Trinidad, Guyana and Jamaica is a category rather than a single recipe; the structure is always the same (curry-and-allspice-seasoned chicken, root vegetables, hand-rolled dumplings, a thickened broth), and the specifics vary household by household. This is the Jamaican lean: pumpkin in the broth as the thickening agent (Grace pumpkin soup mix is the household shortcut), coconut milk for richness, allspice and thyme for the Caribbean signature, and a single pot that's a complete meal. The dumplings are the soul, small hand-rolled cornmeal-and-flour batons that go in last and cook in the broth, slightly bouncy, slightly chewy, picking up the surrounding flavour. The broth is golden-orange from pumpkin and curry, rich without being heavy, with corn-on-the-cob rounds and chunks of Yukon Gold potato giving substance. Smell when you lift the lid is curry, allspice and sweet pumpkin. Easy if you've made stews before, with two hours of mostly-passive simmering. Eaten year-round in Caribbean households as the dependable one-pot meal; nominally a Saturday dish but no Caribbean grandmother would refuse you a bowl on a Tuesday.

2 hours 35 minutes Serves8
Creamy Clam Soup

Creamy Clam Soup

A creamy clam soup that takes the New England chowder format and smooths it out into something closer to a French bisque. You steam fresh clams open in a covered pot, strain the briny liquor (which is half the dish's flavour), then soften onion, leek, carrot and swede in butter before pouring the stock back in with a handful of short-grain rice. The rice cooks down to nothing visible but thickens the soup naturally, which is why this version comes out velvet-smooth after a turn in the blender. Cream goes in last, off the heat so it doesn't split, and the reserved clam meat drops back into the pan along with chopped parsley. You finish each bowl with a few clams left in their shells balanced on the surface for the look of it. Crusty bread on the side, a sharp white wine in the glass, and a small bowl of black pepper to grind over.

1 hour Serves4
Egusi Soup

Egusi Soup

Beef or goat is parboiled with onion, stock cube and salt to make a base stock. Smoked fish hydrates in hot water and is picked clean. Egusi seeds are ground (or already-ground egusi powder is used) into a thick paste with a little water. Onion, garlic, ginger and Scotch bonnet blitz into a hot pepper paste. Palm oil heats until just smoking; the pepper paste fries in it 5 minutes. Egusi paste goes in and "fries" 10 minutes until it forms small clumps. Stock and meat join; everything simmers for 20 minutes. Smoked fish, ground crayfish and locust beans add depth. Chopped spinach (or bitter leaf) goes in for the last 5 minutes. Salt to season.

1 hour 40 minutes Serves6
Manhattan Seafood Chowder

Manhattan Seafood Chowder

New York's tomato-based answer to New England's milk-and-cream chowder, and the source of a regional argument that has been going on for a hundred years. You start by softening bacon with onion, celery and garlic in butter, then add potatoes, thyme and fish stock and let them simmer until the potatoes are tender. The clams go in next under a lid for a few minutes until they open; you pull most of them out of their shells (keeping a few intact for the look of it) and strain the liquor back into the pot. Then tomato purée, chopped tomatoes, cod and prawns, and a final low simmer of just three minutes so the seafood stays tender. A generous scatter of flat-leaf parsley at the end lifts the lot. Serve with crusty bread to mop the brothy red sauce, and ignore anyone from Boston who tells you it's not a chowder.

45 minutes Serves4
New England Clam Chowder

New England Clam Chowder

The benchmark New England chowder: creamy, milky-white, thickened by potato starch rather than flour, and named in the same regional argument that produces Manhattan's red tomato version up the coast. You steam the clams open in a heavy pot with a splash of water, strain the precious liquor (which is half the dish's flavour) through wet muslin, then start the soup proper with bacon rendered down in oil until golden and sweetly smoky. Onion, garlic and diced potato follow, then the reserved clam liquor and a measure of fish stock, and finally the milk poured in and brought back to a careful boil. You simmer covered until the potatoes are tender, uncover for the last ten minutes to thicken slightly, then stir in cream, the picked clam meat and chopped parsley at the very end with the heat low (cream split in a chowder is a small disaster). A few clams left in their shells on top of each bowl, a handful of oyster crackers on the side, and a winter afternoon's worth of comfort in front of you.

55 minutes Serves4
Okra Soup

Okra Soup

Beef parboils briefly with stock cube and onion to make a quick stock. Smoked fish soaks in hot water and is flaked. Fresh okra is chopped very fine (or grated). Palm oil heats; chopped onion, garlic and Scotch bonnet pepper soften. Stock and meat go in; simmers for 5 minutes. Smoked fish, ground crayfish and iru join. Salt to season. Then the okra goes in and cooks just 5 minutes, barely, to keep the bright green colour and the unmistakable slippery thickness. Served over rice or with fufu.

50 minutes Serves4
Seafood Soup

Seafood Soup

A British coastal soup that leans Mediterranean in spirit, the kind of thing a Cornish bistro might serve as a starter on a summer menu. You build a tomato-and-wine broth flavoured with garlic, fresh herbs and a homemade fish stock; the depth of that stock is everything, so use the bones and heads from whatever fish you're cooking and let them simmer down properly. Into the gently bubbling broth go a variety of fresh shellfish (mussels, clams, prawns) and chunks of firm white fish, just long enough to cook through without overcooking. The natural juices the shellfish release back into the broth become part of the soup. Eaten with crusty bread to mop, a glass of cold white wine in the other hand, the sound of the sea half-imagined out the window.

1 hour 20 minutes Serves4-6
Soup Joumou

Soup Joumou

Beef shank or stewing beef marinates overnight in épis and citrus, then browns and simmers in beef broth for an hour. A whole calabaza pumpkin is boiled separately until soft, then puréed with some of the cooking liquid and stirred back into the soup pot. Carrots, turnips, celery, cabbage, leeks and potatoes go in to simmer until tender; vermicelli noodles and a whole pierced Scotch bonnet are added near the end. Final adjustments are lime juice, a knob of butter, fresh parsley and salt. The soup is served on January 1st by tradition; the rest of the year it stays the family Sunday-soup of the Haitian diaspora.

3 hours Serves8
Spinach and Fennel Soup

Spinach and Fennel Soup

A British bistro soup that pairs the gentle anise of fennel with vibrant green spinach, the result somewhere between a French velouté and an Italian zuppa. You sweat fennel and onion slowly in butter until they're soft and faintly translucent, then add stock and let them cook through. Spinach goes in at the end (just a minute, no longer, so it stays bright green rather than collapsing to khaki) and the whole soup blends to a smooth pale-green purée. A swirl of cream enriches the texture; a few fennel fronds and toasted seeds on top for the look of it. Eaten as a starter with a small chunk of crusty bread, or as a light lunch with a tomato salad on the side.

1 hour 5 minutes Serves4
Tom Kha Gai Soup (Chicken, Galangal and Coconut Soup)

Tom Kha Gai Soup (Chicken, Galangal and Coconut Soup)

Tom kha gai is a popular spicy coconut soup. The tasty broth is more important than what you put into it as a main ingredient, which in this case is chicken, although you could substitute prawns (shrimp) to make tom kha goong, or meaty white fish. You could also leave the meat out and make it into a vegan soup, adding whichever vegetable you like or even fried tofu. If you want to have this as a main dish, you could add other ingredients such as noodles to make the soup more filling.

20 minutes Serves4-6
Tom Yum Gai Soup (Hot and Sour Chicken Soup)

Tom Yum Gai Soup (Hot and Sour Chicken Soup)

When you go out for Thai food this is sure to be on the menu. I love the spiciness of this soup, you get a good hit of spice but it doesn’t linger. Some chefs add sugar to it but, for me, this is a spicy, savoury and tart soup with only a hint of natural sweetness from the fried shallots and tomatoes. Do, of course, taste the soup and adjust the flavour to your liking, adding sugar if you want. It makes a delicious starter but you could bulk it up by adding other ingredients such as noodles to make it a light main. The word ‘gai’ means chicken, so this is a chicken tom yum soup. You could substitute prawn (shrimp) stock and prawns to make a delicious tom yum goong, or go vegetarian and use water and tofu.

30 minutes Serves4-6
Tomato Soup

Tomato Soup

The British weeknight classic, the soup that arrives in a mug with a buttered slice of bread on a damp afternoon. You soften onion, garlic and celery in butter, then drop in fresh ripe tomatoes (or a generous tin if winter is being unhelpful), stock, a sprig of basil or thyme, and simmer for twenty minutes until the tomatoes have collapsed and the kitchen smells like a Mediterranean greengrocer. From there you can leave it chunky and rustic or blitz it smooth in a blender, with a slick of cream stirred in at the end if you want it richer. Eaten with a grilled cheese sandwich, fresh bread torn alongside, or a scatter of croutons on top. A simple, forgiving recipe; the only thing that matters is the quality of the tomatoes.

1 hour 5 minutes Serves6-8
Vegetable Soup

Vegetable Soup

A nourishing chunky vegetable soup that gets cooked at the end of the week when there's an awkward collection of half-vegetables in the fridge that needs a home. You build a base of onion, garlic and celery softened slow in butter, then add whatever's around: squash, carrots, courgettes, leeks, leftover green beans, a tin of cannellini or butter beans. A light tomato broth pulls everything together, and the soup simmers gently until the vegetables are just tender. Best the next day, by which point the flavours have settled into each other. Eaten with crusty bread, a wedge of cheese on the side, the lid back on the pot for tomorrow's lunch.

1 hour 25 minutes Serves6