A pre-Hispanic drink that pre-dates Spanish dairy and chocolate by centuries: masa harina, water, and a sweetener. The modern household version uses milk for richness, piloncillo for the smoky-caramel sweetness, a cinnamon stick for warmth and vanilla for the perfume. Whisked over a low heat until the masa thickens the liquid to the consistency of warm pouring custard. Served in mugs, drunk hot.
Masa harina slaked with water, then simmered into a milk-and-piloncillo base scented with a cinnamon stick. A bar of Mexican chocolate (the rustic, slightly grainy kind, scented with cinnamon and almond) goes in to melt and is whisked through. The result is hot chocolate with body, sweetness layered over a faint roasted-corn note. Pour into mugs and dip a churro or a piece of pan de muerto.
A choux-like dough cooks on the stovetop: water, butter, sugar, salt and a touch of vanilla bring to a boil; flour is dumped in all at once; cooked for 2 minutes stirring vigorously until the dough comes together as a ball that pulls away from the pan. Cooled slightly, eggs whisk in one at a time to a smooth thick pipe-able dough. Transferred to a piping bag with a star nozzle (1 ½ cm star tip). Heat oil to 175°C. Pipe directly into the oil, cutting each churro to 12-15 cm length with scissors. Fry for 90 seconds per side until amber. Drain on paper. Roll immediately in cinnamon sugar. Serve warm with hot chocolate.
Caramel cooks dry: sugar melts in a hot pan to a dark amber syrup; poured into a 22 cm round cake tin (or 8 individual ramekins) where it solidifies. Custard: eggs blend with sweetened condensed milk, evaporated milk, whole milk, vanilla and a pinch of salt (no fresh cream, the milk trio is what makes Mexican flan distinct). Strained for smoothness; poured over the set caramel; baked in a water bath at 160°C for 60-75 minutes until just set but with the slightest jiggle in the centre. Cooled fully; refrigerated overnight. Inverted onto a plate the next day; the caramel pools around the dome.
A rich yeasted dough enriched with butter, eggs and sugar, perfumed with orange zest, anise seed and a splash of orange-flower water. The dough is divided: a large ball for the body, four thin strips rolled to look like crossed bones, and a small ball for the centre. After a second rise it goes into a hot oven, then brushed with melted butter and rolled in sugar while still warm. The crust is golden, the crumb is soft and pulls apart in tender threads.
A sponge cake separates yolks and whites; the whites whip with sugar to stiff peaks; the yolks fold with sugar, milk, vanilla, flour and baking powder. The two mixtures fold together carefully (don't deflate the whites). Baked at 175°C for 25-30 minutes until golden and just-springy. While still slightly warm, the top is pricked all over with a skewer to make absorption channels. The "tres leches", evaporated milk + condensed milk + double cream whisked together, pours over the warm cake, slowly. The cake drinks the milk; rests in the fridge at least 4 hours (overnight ideal). Topped with whipped cream and a dusting of cinnamon just before serving.