Side Dishes

5 recipes

Balachaung

The Burmese dried-shrimp relish that sits in a jar in every Yangon kitchen, the seasoning you reach for to lift a plate of plain rice into something memorable. You pulse-grind dried shrimp to a coarse floss, then fry a pile of sliced garlic and shallot in oil until they're deep golden and crisp. The dried shrimp joins them and toasts to a fragrant rust colour. Chilli powder, fish sauce, tamarind, sugar and a splash of water turn the lot into a sticky red-brown relish. Cook until the oil clears (twelve to fifteen minutes), cool, store in a jar. Eat by the spoonful with rice, or as a side to grilled meat or fish.

40 minutes Serves12

Kayan Thee Hnut

A Burmese aubergine dish, the kind of thing that turns up on a weekday table next to a simple curry and rice. You cube the aubergine and salt it for twenty minutes to draw out the bitter water, then squeeze it dry. Onion fries dark-gold in oil; garlic, ginger and turmeric go in briefly; then the aubergine joins them and fries for eight minutes until silky-soft and just collapsing. Fish sauce, chilli powder and a touch of palm sugar season the pan, and toasted crushed peanuts scatter over at the end for crunch. Eaten warm with rice and a small piece of fish.

55 minutes Serves4

Nga Hpe (Burmese Fish Cakes)

The Burmese fish cakes that arrive at lahpet-thoke salad tables and street snack stalls alike, bright with lime and curry leaf. You cube skinless firm fish fillets and pulse them in a food processor with shallot, garlic, ginger, lime, fish sauce and a small egg into a sticky paste. A spoon of beaten cornflour binds it. Curry leaves, sliced spring onion, chopped cilantro and a fresh chilli go in for fragrance and bite. Patties form by hand (keep your hands slightly damp so the mixture doesn't stick), then shallow-fry in batches at 170°C for two or three minutes per side until they're deep gold and crisp at the edges. Eaten warm with a sour-sweet tamarind dipping sauce.

45 minutes Serves6

Samusa Thoke

A Yangon street-stall snack and the lunch office workers queue for at midday: broken samosas tossed in a hot yellow-pea soup at the bowl with raw onion, lime and crispy bits. You cook yellow split peas with turmeric and salt into a thick soup, season it with fried sliced onion, garlic, paprika and fish sauce. Small Burmese samosas (filo or thin pastry triangles with a lamb mince filling) are pre-fried or warmed. The construction in the bowl is fast: a heap of broken samosa, a ladle of hot pea soup, a tangle of raw red onion, a small mound of crispy gram-flour bits, chopped cilantro, a wedge of lime, chilli to taste. Toss at the table and eat while everything is hot.

6 hours Serves4

Shwe Htamin

The Burmese golden rice, the everyday turmeric-stained rice that turns up alongside curries and stews on the home table. You toast long-grain rice briefly in oil with a chopped onion, turmeric and a small handful of cashews (optional but traditional). Water and salt go in, the pot covers tightly, and the rice cooks undisturbed for eighteen minutes. A five-minute rest off the heat finishes the steam. The grains come out the colour of pale gold, perfumed faintly with onion and turmeric, ready to soak up whatever curry sauce hits the plate.

30 minutes Serves4