Atakilt Wat

Atakilt Wat

Ethiopia's spiced cabbage stew, the gentle vegetable side that sits between the fiercer berbere-loaded curries on a shared platter and cools whoever's eating against the heat. You soften onions in oil with turmeric until they're pale gold, then bloom garlic, ginger and a small amount of berbere in the same fat - small because this is the mellow dish, not the fierce one. Carrots and potatoes go in first to soften; cabbage joins later. Cover, drop the heat, and let the lot steam-cook for forty minutes until the volume has halved, the vegetables have melted into each other, and the cabbage has almost disappeared into the sauce. Eaten with injera and a few spoonfuls of doro wat or misir wat alongside for contrast.

Ethiopian 50 minutes Serves4
Chanar Dalna

Chanar Dalna

The vegetarian centrepiece of Bengali Sunday lunches and festival meals, the curry that arrives on the rice plate when fish is off the menu (a Hindu vegetarian day, Saraswati Puja, a temple feast). "Chanar" in Bengali refers to fresh-curdled paneer, "dalna" to a light soupy curry, and the dish is exactly what the name promises. You lightly fry cubes of chhena (or shop paneer if you must) and quartered potatoes until they're pale gold, then simmer them in a thin gravy of mustard oil, whole spices, freshly pounded ginger and ground cumin. There's no onion, no garlic and no tomato in the most traditional version. The dish leans entirely on its whole spices and the ginger paste, which keeps it festival-friendly across vegetarian Hindu households. Eat with a small mound of gobindobhog rice, a wedge of lime on the side, and the chhena half-collapsing into the spiced broth as you spoon.

Bengali 50 minutes Serves4
Dal Makhani

Dal Makhani

Whole black urad lentils and a small handful of red kidney beans are soaked overnight, then pressure-cooked or simmered until completely tender. A tomato-and-spice masala is built separately with onion, garlic, ginger and a careful hand with the spices. The lentils are folded into the masala and simmered, low and slow, for two hours, while butter and cream are stirred through in the final stage. The lentils break down into a glossy, almost-velvet finish.

Indian 3 hours 15 minutes Serves6
Easy Ugandan Curry Potatoes

Easy Ugandan Curry Potatoes

Ugandan curry potatoes are one of those everyday dishes that say more about a country's cooking than the showpiece feast plates do. Curry powder reached Uganda via the Indian and Goan communities of the East African coast and the railway-building era, and was quickly absorbed into the local repertoire as a flavour for stews rather than as a separate cuisine. The result here is mild, fragrant and unmistakably Ugandan: small chunks of waxy potato cooked through in a sauce built on onions sweated until soft, fresh tomato simmered down, and a generous spoon of mild yellow curry powder bloomed in the oil. Garlic and ginger run quietly underneath; a single chopped chilli does the heat work if you want it. It is a vegetarian dish in most homes, though it sits happily alongside fried fish or chicken stew on a fuller plate. The difficulty for a home cook is low, it is almost foolproof, but watch the potatoes; the dish is best when they hold their shape and the sauce just hugs them rather than dissolving everything into a mash. Eat with chapati to mop up the gravy, or with steamed rice, posho, or matooke.

Ugandan 45 minutes Serves4
Kewa Datshi

Kewa Datshi

The gentler, more domestic cousin of ema datshi: a Bhutanese family supper of potatoes simmered with chilli and cheese into a creamy, lively sauce. You slice waxy potatoes into thin rounds and drop them into a single pot with green chillies, onion, garlic, butter and the cheese mixture, then cover with water and simmer for about twenty-five minutes until the potatoes are tender and the cheese has melted into a thick, pale-yellow chilli-flecked sauce. The technique is the simplest in Bhutanese cooking: everything goes in together and cooks down without ceremony. The art is in the chilli-to-cheese ratio. More chilli and the dish reads as fiery; more cheese and it reads as rich. Either way it's eaten with red Bhutanese rice, the potatoes half-melting into the rice as you spoon.

Bhutanese 35 minutes Serves4
Lahori Chana Pulao

Lahori Chana Pulao

Whole chickpeas are soaked overnight and simmered until tender (or pressure-cooked). The chickpea cooking liquor is measured and reserved as part of the rice cooking liquid. A fried-onion base is built in ghee with whole spices, ginger-garlic paste and ground spices, and the cooked chickpeas are folded in. Soaked basmati is toasted in the base, then the measured cooking liquor goes in for the steam. A scatter of fried onion and coriander finishes.

Rice 2 hours 15 minutes Serves4-6
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