Atakilt Wat

Atakilt Wat

Ethiopia's spiced cabbage stew, the gentle vegetable side that sits between the fiercer berbere-loaded curries on a shared platter and cools whoever's eating against the heat. You soften onions in oil with turmeric until they're pale gold, then bloom garlic, ginger and a small amount of berbere in the same fat - small because this is the mellow dish, not the fierce one. Carrots and potatoes go in first to soften; cabbage joins later. Cover, drop the heat, and let the lot steam-cook for forty minutes until the volume has halved, the vegetables have melted into each other, and the cabbage has almost disappeared into the sauce. Eaten with injera and a few spoonfuls of doro wat or misir wat alongside for contrast.

Ethiopian 50 minutes Serves4
Atchara

Atchara

Green papaya is peeled, seeded and shredded on a coarse grater. Carrot, ginger, garlic, red pepper, onion and raisins are all prepared in matching shreds. The vegetables are salted and rested for 1 hour to draw water; rinsed and squeezed dry. A syrup of cane vinegar, sugar and whole peppercorns simmers for 5 minutes. Hot syrup is poured over the vegetables in a sterilised jar. The jar is sealed, cooled and refrigerated overnight before eating. Improves over the following week.

Sides 1 hour 40 minutes Serves1
Blanched Garlic

Blanched Garlic

Blanching garlic is a classical French technique that completely transforms the ingredient's character. By repeatedly blanching in fresh milk, the milk absorbs the harsh sulfur compounds responsible for raw garlic's bite, leaving behind only sweet, mild flavor with a subtle nuttiness. The result is garlic that's almost creamy and delicate, perfect as a garnish or side component where garlic's presence is desired without its aggressive character.

Vegetables 15 minutes Serves1
Boquerones en Vinagre

Boquerones en Vinagre

Whole fresh anchovies butterfly: pinch the head, pull, the spine and head come away with the guts. The two fillets remain attached at the tail. Fillets rinse in icy water 5 minutes; lay flat on a tray; sprinkle with salt; cover with white-wine vinegar; cure 24 hours (the flesh turns from pinkish-grey to opaque white). Drain. Layer the cured fillets in a dish with olive oil, sliced garlic, parsley. Rest at least 4 hours before serving.

Snacks 32 hours 30 minutes Serves4
Borani Banjan

Borani Banjan

Borani banjan is an Afghan aubergine dish that does the same work as a moussaka or a melitzanosalata: pan-fried aubergine slices, a quick spiced tomato sauce, and a generous lid of garlic-and-mint yogurt that bridges all the warm and cold elements. The aubergine slices salt and sweat for half an hour first (which keeps them from drinking too much oil) before they fry hard in olive oil until golden and silky. Onion and tomato cook to a quick sauce with turmeric and a kick of chilli. The aubergine and sauce layer in a wide dish, then the chaka (yogurt whisked with garlic and salt) spoons over the whole thing while it is still warm. Scatter dried mint and drizzle olive oil to finish. Eat warm or at room temperature, with bread.

Sides 1 hour 20 minutes Serves4
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