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Floury potatoes boil in their skins, then mash dry. A spice paste of green chilli, ginger and roasted cumin folds in with chopped coriander, mint and amchur for sourness. Cornflour and gram flour bind without making the tikki gummy. Patties form, chill to firm up, then shallow-fry in shallow oil on a flat pan for 4-5 minutes per side until deep gold and crisp with a soft interior. The chilled rest is what stops them falling apart.
A good bánh mì is mostly assembly. The bread should be light and crackly, the pâté smeared on thickly, the mayo generous, the meat layered cold and the herbs and pickles loaded right to the edges. A short blast in a hot oven is what crisps the loaf; the filling goes in straight after. Eat standing up over the sink.
A pork and prawn filling is bound with shredded carrot, glass noodles and reconstituted wood-ear mushrooms, then rolled tightly in moistened rice paper and fried twice for maximum crunch. The double-fry technique gives chả giò their characteristic bubbled, blistered crust. Served with cool lettuce leaves, herbs and a punchy nước chấm dipping sauce.
The dough uses a low-protein cake flour (or plain flour with cornflour added) for the snow-white pillowy crumb. Yeast, sugar, baking powder, milk and lard (or vegetable shortening) blend with the flour into a soft sweet dough. Rises for 1 hour. Filling: store-bought or homemade char siu pork is diced fine; shallots fry in oil; the diced pork tosses in with oyster sauce, hoisin, dark soy, sugar, chicken stock and a cornstarch slurry. Thickens to a sticky glaze. Cooled fully. The dough divides into 12 balls, each rolls into a thick disc with a thin edge, filling sits in the centre, pleats wrap up and pinch at the top. Final proof for 25 min. Steamed for 12 min over high heat, the tops should crack open.
Two-stage flavour build: first a spice infusion (whole spices soaked briefly in water, then simmered slowly in vegetable oil with spring onion and ginger), then a sizzle (the hot strained oil poured over a heat-proof bowl of chilli flakes, smoked paprika, soy and Chinese vinegar). Cooling. Mixing in the textural elements: caster sugar, salt, chicken stock powder, crispy fried shallots and crispy fried garlic. Jarred, rested 24 hours so the flavours marry, stirred vigorously before each use because the oil and solids separate.
Prawn toast is a classic dim sum snack of bread spread with a seasoned prawn paste, coated in sesame seeds, and deep fried until golden and crisp. The ginger, soy sauce, and sesame oil in the paste give the filling a distinctly aromatic, umami-rich flavour that contrasts with the crunchy, seed-studded exterior. Popular in Chinese restaurants worldwide, it makes an excellent finger food or starter.
Thai fishcakes (often called ‘tod mun pla’ on menus) are known for their spongy consistency, which I’m not fond of; that sponginess comes from the egg, so I tend to leave it out. Fishcakes are usually deep-fried in street stalls and restaurants, but I find it much easier to shallow-fry them. These are great served with sweet chilli sauce, Thai seafood dipping sauce and/or cucumber and chilli relish.
Fried wuntun are crispy deep-fried parcels filled with a seasoned pork and Parma ham mixture, flavoured with ginger, soy sauce, and sesame oil. The golden, crunchy wrappers give way to a juicy, aromatic filling that makes them an irresistible party snack or starter. They are best served immediately after frying with a selection of dipping sauces.
Pork belly is simmered until tender, prawns are poached briefly, and vermicelli is cooked just al dente. Everything cools to room temperature, then rice paper rounds are dipped briefly in warm water and rolled around lettuce, herbs and the protein with the pink of the prawns showing through the wrapper. The peanut-hoisin sauce is the make-or-break: it should be thick, sweet and lightly garlicky.
A thin batter of mung-bean flour, millet flour, plain flour, water, salt and five-spice is whisked to a single-cream consistency; rested for 1 hour. A wide flat griddle or large non-stick pan is heated; a ladle of batter is spread thinly with a wooden disc-rake (jian bing rake, or just rotate the pan to spread). An egg is cracked onto the crepe; smashed and spread with a spatula. The crepe is flipped; the cooked side is painted with sweet bean sauce and chilli paste; scattered with herbs; topped with a crisp wonton sheet; folded into quarters. Eaten warm, by hand.
A hot-water dough - flour mixed with water (just-boiled) - for a tender, slightly stretchy wrapper that doesn't dry out. The filling is the classic family recipe: minced pork and finely chopped Chinese chives bound with soy, sesame oil, ginger and shaoxing wine. Each dumpling rolled thin, filled with a generous teaspoon, pleated along one edge, sealed and shaped. Boiled in batches, with the "three-cup" trick of adding cold water between waves to stop the wrappers blistering. Served with a sharp black vinegar and chilli dipping sauce.
A filling of minced pork and chopped prawn binds with coriander root (pounded with garlic and white pepper into the traditional Thai "rak pak chee" paste), oyster sauce, soy sauce, sugar, sesame oil, and a beaten egg. The mixture chills for 20 minutes to firm. Square wonton wrappers go around the filling cupcake-style: filling in the centre, edges pulled up and pleated open around the meat, top brushed with a tiny smear of beaten egg and topped with a thin slice of carrot. Steamed in a bamboo basket over boiling water for 8 minutes. Dip is black soy sauce with sliced chilli and rice vinegar.
Two batters. The first (the base) is rice flour, palm sugar, salt, coconut milk and a small amount of mung-bean flour; rests for 2 hours so the rice flour hydrates. The second (the top) is just coconut cream, salt and a pinch of rice flour. A khanom krok pan (or an aebleskiver pan, or a takoyaki pan) is heated; each dimple is brushed with oil; the base batter goes in three-quarters; covered briefly to set; the top coconut-cream batter spoons over to fill; covered again; the half-spheres release when the bottom is golden and the tops are barely jiggling. Two are paired together and served on a small banana-leaf square.
Dried shrimp and dried shiitake soak in warm water until plump; the soaking water is reserved. Chinese sausage dices fine; shallots, soaked shrimp and shiitake chop separately. All these flavourings fry together in oil until aromatic. Grated daikon is added with the shiitake-shrimp soaking liquid; cooked for 10 minutes covered until softened. Rice flour whisks with cold water into a smooth slurry; pours into the daikon mixture; cooks for 2 minutes, stirring, until thickened into a batter. Tipped into a greased loaf tin; smoothed; steamed for 60 minutes in a wide pot. Cooled fully, refrigerated, then sliced 1 cm thick and pan-fried in oil until crusted gold on both sides. Served with chilli oil and a dipping sauce of light soy and rice vinegar.
A simple flour-water-oil dough rests for 1 hour (gluten relaxes; will roll paper-thin). Filling: beef mince cooks with shallot, garlic, ginger, curry-leaf, ground spices till dry and aromatic; cools; mixes with beaten eggs, spring onion and chopped coriander just before frying. Dough divides; each portion stretches paper-thin like a strudel; filling spoons in the centre; the edges fold over to make a flat square parcel; pan-fries for 3 minutes per side. Cuts in quarters; eats with chilli-pickle sauce.
The sauce (the technical heart of the dish) reduces palm sugar, fish sauce, tamarind paste, water, ginger and dried shrimp to a thick, glossy, dark amber syrup. The fillings, diced lime (skin and all), diced ginger, sliced shallot, chopped roasted peanuts, dried shrimp, small chilli, and toasted shredded coconut, are arrayed in small mounds on a serving platter. Fresh young betel leaves go alongside. Each diner takes a leaf, layers a tiny pinch of each filling, drops a quarter-teaspoon of the sauce on top, folds and pops the whole thing in one bite.
Indonesian-style pork satay featuring tender, spiced meat on bamboo skewers with a creamy, complex peanut sauce enriched with coconut milk. The pork is infused with a paste of lemongrass, ground spices, and aromatics, making each bite deeply flavorful. This dish showcases traditional Southeast Asian techniques and is perfect for entertaining.
Onion bhajis are golden, crispy fritters made from sliced onions bound in a spiced gram flour batter and deep fried until crunchy and cooked through. The combination of chilli, turmeric, coriander, and curry leaves gives them a warmly aromatic flavour that pairs perfectly with cooling yoghurt-based dips. Freshly made, they are a satisfying vegetarian snack or side dish alongside a curry.
Saba bananas (or under-ripe regular bananas) peel and halve lengthways. Batter: rice flour, plain flour, sugar, baking powder, salt mixed with cold water and a touch of vanilla to a thick pancake-batter consistency. Bananas dip into the batter to coat; lower into hot oil (175°C); fry for 4-5 minutes turning, until deep gold and crisp. Drain on a rack. Eats hot, sometimes dusted with icing sugar or drizzled with palm-sugar syrup.
A stiff oil-rich plain-flour dough (maida) rolls thin and crisps in the fryer with the characteristic blistered surface. The filling is dry: boiled potato, peas, ginger, green chilli, cumin, coriander seed, garam masala and amchur (dried mango powder) for sourness. The pastry is rolled into ovals, halved into semicircles, formed into cones, stuffed, sealed and fried in two stages: low-temperature first to set the pastry without browning, then a hot finish to blister and crisp.