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Arancini

Arancini

Cold risotto (saffron Milanese-style is traditional in arancini "alla Milanese"; plain works too) is mixed with grated parmesan and beaten egg to bind. Filling, a stew of beef-and-pork ragù with peas, OR a cube of mozzarella, sits in the centre of each ball. Hands wet with water shape the rice around the filling into a tight orange-sized ball (or cone, for the Catania style). Each ball is rolled first in flour, then in beaten egg, then in fine breadcrumbs (or in the doubled-up "panata" mix of flour + water for the Sicilian original). Deep-fried at 180°C in 4-5 cm of oil for 4-6 minutes per ball until deep gold. Drained on kitchen paper; eaten warm.

Snacks 45 minutes Serves4
Arroz de Pato

Arroz de Pato

Arroz de pato is Portugal's answer to paella, except baked rather than simmered, and the rice picks up a top crust of crisped chouriço at the end. You poach a whole duck for two hours with onion, bay, cloves and lemon peel until the meat falls apart, then strip the meat off the bones and put the bones back to extract another half hour of flavour from the stock. The strained duck stock cooks the rice, the shredded meat folds back in, and the whole thing goes into a baking dish under a layer of paper-thin chouriço slices. Twenty minutes in a hot oven and the top emerges deeply burnished, the chouriço slices crisp at their edges and slick at their centres. Sunday lunch, ideally with a heavy red from the Douro.

Portuguese 3 hours 25 minutes Serves6
Chicken Piccata Meatballs

Chicken Piccata Meatballs

Chicken piccata, the Italian-American mid-century classic of pounded chicken cutlets in a lemon-butter-caper pan sauce, reshaped into meatball form, which trades the precise look of cutlets for a juicier, more forgiving texture. The flavour is unmistakably piccata: butter as the body of the sauce, lemon as the brightness, capers as the salty-vinegary punctuation. Underneath sits a chicken meatball lightened by ricotta (it keeps the lean ground chicken from going dry and dense) and parmesan, with parsley, garlic, smoked paprika and a pinch of red pepper flakes lifting the seasoning. The meatballs themselves stay tender because the mix isn't overworked and because they finish cooking in the sauce rather than the pan. Smell is melted butter, lemon and capers, the same smell every Italian-American restaurant kitchen has on a Tuesday lunch service. Easy enough for a weeknight, restrained enough not to feel like a stand-in dish; the technique is essentially "make meatballs, build pan sauce, return meatballs". Serves over pasta, rice or crusty bread to mop the sauce.

American 45 minutes Serves4
Crawfish Étouffée

Crawfish Étouffée

A Louisiana classic, the dish whose name means "smothered" in French, and that's exactly what's happening at the table: tender crawfish tails smothered in a rich gravy spooned over white rice. You start with a blond roux (butter and flour cooked just to the colour of peanut butter, lighter than gumbo's nearly-burnt mahogany), then soften the Cajun trinity of onion, celery and bell pepper in it until everything goes glossy. Tomato paste, Cajun spice and stock loosen the mixture, and the lot simmers down to a thick velvety gravy. Crawfish tails (or prawns if you can't find them) go in near the end and cook just briefly so they stay tender rather than turning rubbery. Spring onion and parsley scatter over at the finish. Ladled over white rice in a bowl, with crusty bread and a glass of cold beer alongside.

Cajun 1 hour Serves4
Dolma (Azerbaijani Stuffed Vine Leaves)

Dolma (Azerbaijani Stuffed Vine Leaves)

Azerbaijan's stuffed vine leaves, claimed as the national dish in 2017 and added to UNESCO's list of Intangible Cultural Heritage. You start by soaking brined vine leaves in warm water for twenty minutes to leach out the salt, then build a filling of raw lamb mince with rinsed short-grain rice, finely chopped onion, fresh mint and dill, butter, salt and pepper. Each leaf gets a teaspoon of filling and rolls into a tight cigar. The rolls pack in a single layer in a heavy pot, then a second and third layer perpendicular to the first, like a brickwork pattern that holds them together as they cook. Stock and a splash of sumac water pour in to barely cover, an inverted plate weighs everything down so the dolma keep their shape, and the lot simmers slowly for fifty minutes. Plated on a platter with thick garlic yogurt alongside for dipping.

Azerbaijan 2 hours Serves6
Dolmadakia (Greek Stuffed Vine Leaves)

Dolmadakia (Greek Stuffed Vine Leaves)

Brined vine leaves are soaked for 20 minutes to leach the brine. Filling: short-grain rice is par-cooked for 10 minutes with onion in olive oil; off heat, dill, mint, parsley, pine nuts, currants and lemon zest are stirred through. Each leaf is given a teaspoon of cool filling and rolled into a tight cigar. The rolls are packed tight in a heavy pot lined with broken / extra leaves. Olive oil, lemon juice and stock are poured in to barely cover. Weighed down with an inverted plate. Slow-simmered for 50-60 minutes. Cooled in the liquid; served at room temperature.

Snacks 2 hours Serves40
Kabsa

Kabsa

Saudi Arabia's national dish, the one platter you'll meet at almost every gathering from family lunch through wedding banquet. You brown chicken pieces or lamb shoulder hard in a heavy pot, then build a base of onion, garlic and ginger softened in the same fat, with tomato and a spoonful of baharat (or a dedicated kabsa spice mix) blooming until the kitchen fills with cardamom and cinnamon. The protein simmers in tomato and stock until it's tender and pulling away from the bone, then long-grain rice goes in to cook absorption-style in the same liquid, drinking up every layer of flavour the broth carries. You finish with almonds toasted in butter, raisins plumped briefly, and a fresh salsa of tomato, onion, chilli and parsley spooned on the side to cut the richness. Eaten communally from the centre platter, with hands or a long spoon.

Arabian 1 hour 35 minutes Serves6
Khoresh Bademjan

Khoresh Bademjan

Aubergines are peeled in stripes, sliced into 1 ½ cm-thick rounds (or 2 cm-thick long pieces), salted heavily on both sides and rested for 30 minutes to weep bitter juice. Patted dry and shallow-fried gold in sunflower oil. The base: onion fries in oil until deep gold; lamb cubes brown in; turmeric, cinnamon, salt and pepper toast briefly; tomato paste cooks for 2 minutes; water and yellow split peas join; everything simmers for 1 hour. Verjuice (or lemon juice), saffron-water and the fried aubergines go in for the last 30 minutes. Served over chelo rice.

Persian 2 hours 45 minutes Serves4
Khoresh Karafs

Khoresh Karafs

Lamb shoulder is browned in oil; sliced onion is softened to gold; turmeric and a pinch of cinnamon toast briefly; water covers; the pot simmers for 1 hour 15 minutes until tender. Meanwhile, lots of celery is sliced into 2 cm-long pieces and sautéed with parsley and mint over medium heat 8-10 minutes until fragrant and just softened. The celery-and-herb mix goes into the pot for the last 25 minutes. Saffron-water and lemon juice at the end. Salt to taste.

Persian 2 hours 10 minutes Serves4
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