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Bacalhau à Brás

Bacalhau à Brás

Bacalhau à Brás is the dish Portugal turns to when the salt cod, the onions and the eggs all need to find their place in one pan: scrambled together with a tangle of fine matchstick chips so the whole thing reads as somewhere between a hash and a loose carbonara. The salt cod needs the usual day or two of cold soaks to draw the salt down, then a brief simmer to soften it; the onions take their time in olive oil with a few smashed garlic cloves until almost jam-like; the matchstick chips (palha) are fried separately so they stay crisp. Everything comes together in a wide pan, the eggs are whisked in over a low heat, and you stop the moment the eggs coat the cod and potato like a sauce. Never let them set firm. Olives, parsley and a wedge of lemon at the table.

Portuguese 45 minutes Serves4
Cataplana de Marisco

Cataplana de Marisco

A cataplana is a hinged copper clamshell pan, and the seafood stew named after it is one of those dishes where the cookware does the work. You build a base of onions, peppers, sliced chouriço, smoked paprika, tomato and white wine in the bottom of the cataplana, then layer clams, mussels, prawns and chunks of firm white fish on top, clamp the lid shut, and steam it all for less than ten minutes. The lid lifts at the table to release a cloud of paprika-and-wine-scented steam, which is the entire point of the dish. If you do not have a cataplana, any wide pan with a tight lid does the same job. Coriander and lemon at the end, crusty bread for the broth, and vinho verde for everything else.

Portuguese 55 minutes Serves4
Cedar-Planked Salmon

Cedar-Planked Salmon

A food-safe cedar plank submerges in water for an hour. The salmon (skin on, one side) gets a brief dry cure of brown sugar, salt and crushed juniper. Maple syrup and lemon zest go on at the end of the cure. The hot grill cooks the plank from below while the salmon cooks from the slow heat radiating up, a steam-smoke method, neither pure grilling nor pure baking. The result is a salmon that tastes faintly of forest, cured-cured-not-curried.*

Native North American 2 hours 3 minutes Serves4
Crawfish Étouffée

Crawfish Étouffée

A Louisiana classic, the dish whose name means "smothered" in French, and that's exactly what's happening at the table: tender crawfish tails smothered in a rich gravy spooned over white rice. You start with a blond roux (butter and flour cooked just to the colour of peanut butter, lighter than gumbo's nearly-burnt mahogany), then soften the Cajun trinity of onion, celery and bell pepper in it until everything goes glossy. Tomato paste, Cajun spice and stock loosen the mixture, and the lot simmers down to a thick velvety gravy. Crawfish tails (or prawns if you can't find them) go in near the end and cook just briefly so they stay tender rather than turning rubbery. Spring onion and parsley scatter over at the finish. Ladled over white rice in a bowl, with crusty bread and a glass of cold beer alongside.

Cajun 1 hour Serves4
Curry Smelts

Curry Smelts

Trinidadian comfort food that brings together the East Indian and Afro-Caribbean strands of Trini cookery in one pan: small whole fried fish (a West African and Caribbean coastal habit) drowned in a Trinidadian East Indian curry sauce. The fish are smelts, sardines or whitebait, whole, head-on, eaten with a small bite to remove the spine. Once fried they sit crisp; when the curry sauce hits, the outer crust softens slightly and absorbs the gravy while the centre stays meaty. The sauce is the dish's signature: roasted geera (dry-toasted cumin) gives a smoky, nutty depth that pre-ground supermarket cumin can't touch, anchar masala adds a fermented-tangy edge (it's the Trinidadian pickled-mango spice mix), and Caribbean curry powder rounds the warmth. Whole pierced Scotch bonnet scents without flooring. Smell when the spices bloom in hot oil is heavy and pungent in the best possible way. Not difficult but it's a two-pan dance, so timing matters. A daily-cookery dish across Trinidad and Tobago and the Indo-Trinidadian diaspora, eaten with steamed rice or with sada roti torn and used as a scoop.

Trinidadian 50 minutes Serves5
Eggs Benedict

Eggs Benedict

The Sunday brunch icon, and the dish people learn hollandaise for. You build the sauce first, whisking egg yolks with water and lemon over a bain-marie until they ribbon, then drizzling in warm clarified butter while you whisk steady and even until the bowl holds something glossy and thick. The hollandaise will wait for you in a warm spot while you poach the eggs - vinegar in barely-simmering water, a gentle whirlpool, three minutes for a runny yolk - and toast the muffins, and warm the ham. Then everything stacks at speed: muffin, ham, egg, hollandaise spooned generously over, a scatter of chives. You eat immediately, because every component is at its best within a minute of plating and falls off a cliff after five. Looks fancy on a tablecloth; rewards twenty focused minutes of work.

American 30 minutes Serves4
Firecracker Prawns

Firecracker Prawns

Prawns (shrimp) curl naturally into half-circles. To get your firecracker prawns looking right you need to do some cosmetic work but it’s an easy job: the underside of the prawns needs to be scored in three places so that you can straighten them up. I have seen this popular starter prepared with many different marinades but as the name implies, it’s the chilli that is important. In this recipe I suggest using both chilli paste and roasted chilli flakes. How much of each you add, however, is completely down to you and how spicy you like your food. I recommend serving these with sweet chilli sauce.

Starters 30 minutes Serves20
Fish and Chips

Fish and Chips

The British takeaway classic, the meal eaten wrapped in paper on a seafront bench while the gulls work out their angle of attack. The chips are the longer half of the job: floury Maris Piper potatoes blanched first at low oil temperature to cook through, drained, then crisped at a hotter temperature for the second fry that gives them their proper craggy crunch. The fish (cod or haddock for the classic, pollock or hake for the equally-good alternatives) dunks in a cold beer batter and goes straight into the same hot oil, where the batter sets instantly into a shattering golden shell that keeps the fish steaming and white inside. Mushy peas on the side, a wedge of lemon if you're being fancy. Salt and malt vinegar at the table, newspaper underneath if you're going traditional.

British 45 minutes Serves4
Lablabi

Lablabi

Chickpeas (pre-soaked overnight and slow-cooked, OR tinned for speed) simmer in their cooking water with crushed garlic, cumin, salt and a spoon of harissa for 20 minutes. The broth thickens slightly as a few chickpeas break down. Deep bowls are loaded with torn stale baguette. The hot broth ladles over to soften the bread. Each bowl is topped with a soft-poached or soft-boiled egg, a drizzle of olive oil, lemon juice, a fresh spoon of harissa, a heap of canned tuna, olives, capers and a sprinkle of cumin.

North African 45 minutes Serves4
Lahori Fried Fish

Lahori Fried Fish

Firm white fish is scored, rubbed with a spice paste of ginger-garlic, Kashmiri chilli, ajwain (carom), turmeric and lemon, and rested for ½ hour. A separate gram-flour batter (besan, rice flour, ajwain and a pinch of bicarb for crispness) is whisked to a thick coating consistency. Each fillet is dipped in the batter and shallow-fried in mustard oil until the crust deep-gold-crackles. Eaten with a heavy dusting of chaat masala and a squeeze of lemon.

Lahori 1 hour Serves4
Matzo Brei

Matzo Brei

The eight-day Passover diet rests on matzo, and matzo brei is the dish that turns yesterday's plain matzo crackers into a proper hot breakfast. Pieces of matzo go briefly under warm water until they soften (but don't disintegrate), then drain. They get folded into beaten salted eggs, sit a minute so the matzo drinks in the egg, and then go into hot foaming butter. Two finishes: cook flat as a thick pancake and flip, or break up and scramble. Eaten immediately with whichever topping the household votes for.

Snacks 12 minutes Serves2
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