
Masgouf
Iraq's national fish: a whole butterflied carp marinated in tamarind, olive oil and turmeric, slow-grilled vertically beside an open wood fire.
Overview
Whole large fish butterflies open (a long cut down the back, leaving the belly attached). Marinated with olive oil, tamarind paste, lemon, garlic, salt, turmeric. Set skin-side down on a baking tray; grilled / roasted at very high heat 25-30 minutes until the flesh is opaque and the skin charred. Topped with sliced tomato, onion and parsley in the last 8 minutes.
Ingredients
- 1 whole large freshwater fish (1.4-1.8 kg - carp, perch, sea bass or trout) - butterflied (ask the fishmonger to remove the spine and open it flat, skin still on)
- 4 tablespoons olive oil
- 2 tablespoons tamarind paste (concentrate)
- 1 lemon (juice)
- 6 garlic cloves (crushed)
- 1 teaspoon ground turmeric
- 1 teaspoon ground cumin
- 1 ½ teaspoons salt
- 1 teaspoon ground black pepper
- 1 onion (large, sliced)
- 2 tomatoes (large, sliced)
- 1 small bunch fresh parsley (chopped)
- 1 lemon (cut into wedges)
Method
Stage 1 - Marinade
- Whisk olive oil, tamarind, lemon juice, garlic, turmeric, cumin, salt, pepper in a bowl.
Stage 2 - Prep fish
- Pat fish dry. Score the flesh side in a 3 cm crosshatch.
- Lay flesh-side up on a foil-lined baking tray.
- Brush the marinade generously over the flesh, into the scores.
- Rest 1 hour.
Stage 3 - Grill
- Heat oven to 240°C (220°C fan) with the top rack high under the grill.
- Place the tray under the grill 18 minutes.
Stage 4 - Top
- Lay the sliced tomato and onion over the surface of the fish.
- Drizzle with another tablespoon of olive oil.
- Grill another 8-10 minutes - vegetables soften, fish is fully cooked, skin charred where exposed.
Stage 5 - Serve
- Scatter parsley; lemon wedges alongside.
- Set the whole fish on the table; eat with hot flatbread, picking the flesh in chunks.
Notes
- Butterfly properly: The fishmonger needs to remove the spine and most bones, leaving a flat fish with the skin intact. Without this it's a different dish.
- Tamarind is signature: The sour-fruity note distinguishes Iraqi masgouf from any other grilled fish. Don't substitute lemon alone.
- Open-fire ideal: A BBQ with offset wood-fire heat (vertical-grill style) gives the most authentic result. Oven grill at full heat is the home compromise.
Storage
- Best eaten same day. Refrigerate 2 days; eat cold or warm gently.
More like this
Dolma Iraqi
A filling of short-grain rice, lamb mince, onion, parsley, dill, mint, tomato puree, allspice, cumin, cinnamon, salt, pepper, olive oil. Vine leaves blanch; vegetables hollow out (cores reserved as the pot base layer). Each leaf and shell stuffs; arranged tightly in a wide pot lined with sliced tomato and reserved vegetable cores. Tamarind-pomegranate-lemon liquid poured halfway up. Cooked covered 1 hour 15 minutes on lowest heat.
Bamia Iraqi
Lamb shoulder is browned hard; onion is softened; garlic, baharat and tomato paste join. Stock, tamarind, dried lime and tinned tomato deglaze. The lamb is braised for 75 minutes. Small whole okra goes in the last 25 minutes (long enough to soften, short enough not to disintegrate). Taqliya, crushed garlic and coriander sizzled in oil, is drizzled over at the end.
Paella de Mariscos
A sofrito of onion, garlic and tomato is built in the paella pan, then bomba rice goes in and absorbs warm fish stock with saffron. Squid and white fish go in early; prawns, mussels and clams are nestled in for the last 10 minutes so they steam open without overcooking.
Cataplana de Marisco
A cataplana is a hinged copper clamshell pan, and the seafood stew named after it is one of those dishes where the cookware does the work. You build a base of onions, peppers, sliced chouriço, smoked paprika, tomato and white wine in the bottom of the cataplana, then layer clams, mussels, prawns and chunks of firm white fish on top, clamp the lid shut, and steam it all for less than ten minutes. The lid lifts at the table to release a cloud of paprika-and-wine-scented steam, which is the entire point of the dish. If you do not have a cataplana, any wide pan with a tight lid does the same job. Coriander and lemon at the end, crusty bread for the broth, and vinho verde for everything else.