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Green papaya is peeled, seeded and shredded on a coarse grater. Carrot, ginger, garlic, red pepper, onion and raisins are all prepared in matching shreds. The vegetables are salted and rested for 1 hour to draw water; rinsed and squeezed dry. A syrup of cane vinegar, sugar and whole peppercorns simmers for 5 minutes. Hot syrup is poured over the vegetables in a sterilised jar. The jar is sealed, cooled and refrigerated overnight before eating. Improves over the following week.
A handful of vegetables (drumstick, ash gourd, carrot, runner beans, green plantain) are cut into uniform 5 cm batons and cooked separately to keep their textures. Coconut is ground with cumin, green chilli and shallot into a paste, which is added to the cooked vegetables with thinned yogurt. The dish is warmed gently (never simmered) so the yogurt doesn't split, and finished with raw coconut oil and curry leaves.
A whole aubergine is charred directly over a gas flame until the skin is blackened and the flesh inside is soft. The charred skin is peeled off and the flesh roughly mashed. A masala of onion, garlic, ginger, green chilli and tomato is cooked down to a thick base, and the smoky aubergine flesh is folded through with a finishing touch of garam masala and coriander. Vegetable-side or vegetarian main; the smoke is what makes it.
Balti masala is a mild, balanced spice blend designed as the foundation for British-Indian curries. Unlike hot masalas, this blend emphasizes warmth over fire. The whole spices are dry-roasted to develop their individual characters before grinding, creating depth of flavor that pre-ground blends can't match. The cinnamon provides sweetness, coriander seeds contribute earthiness, and cardamom adds aromatics. This is a curry powder that improves with age; it develops better flavor after 1-2 weeks of storage.
A simple custard of whole eggs, condensed milk and evaporated milk is poured over a hard caramel base and baked in a bain-marie at low temperature for a silken set. The caramel melts into a sauce as the flan chills overnight in the fridge. Tipped out onto a plate, the dark caramel runs down the sides and pools at the base.
The brightest barszcz uses fermented beetroot kvas, beetroot, garlic and rye bread crust steeped in salted water for 24-48 hours, for the sour edge. Faster: simmer roasted beetroot, root vegetables and dried mushroom in vegetable stock with bay, peppercorns and allspice. Strain to clarity; finish with vinegar and a small amount of sugar to balance. Serve hot from a small bowl or mug.
Milk and cream warm with sugar; saffron blooms in milk separately; egg yolks whisk with sugar to ribbons. The hot milk tempers into the yolks; the custard cooks back to coat-the-spoon thickness; off the heat, rosewater, saffron-milk and a pinch of mastic powder fold in. Cooled custard goes into the ice cream churn. As it freezes, ribbons of separately-frozen cream and chopped pistachios fold through.
The okra is washed, dried thoroughly and trimmed, then cut into 2 cm pieces. A dry-fry over high heat for 10 minutes cooks away the surface moisture that causes slime. Onion is then browned with whole cumin in a separate go, ginger and garlic added, tomato cooked down with the ground spices, and the dry-fried okra folded in for a final dry simmer. Finished with garam masala, amchur and coriander.
Bombay Potatoes is comfort food at its finest. Small potatoes are partially cooked, then coated in a richly spiced oil infused with seeds and aromatics. Some potatoes are mashed to create a creamy base, while others remain whole for texture. The result is a warm, golden, deeply spiced side dish that's utterly satisfying. This is a vegetarian staple of Indian home cooking.
Whole fresh anchovies butterfly: pinch the head, pull, the spine and head come away with the guts. The two fillets remain attached at the tail. Fillets rinse in icy water 5 minutes; lay flat on a tray; sprinkle with salt; cover with white-wine vinegar; cure 24 hours (the flesh turns from pinkish-grey to opaque white). Drain. Layer the cured fillets in a dish with olive oil, sliced garlic, parsley. Rest at least 4 hours before serving.
Whole brown figs simmer slowly in a syrup of brown sugar, water, cinnamon and cloves until they're tender and the syrup has thickened to glossy. Off the heat, each fig gets cut almost through and stuffed with a generous spoonful of arequipe. Served warm or chilled, with extra syrup spooned over.
Sweetened condensed milk, cocoa powder and butter cook together in a heavy pan over medium-low heat, stirring constantly. The mixture goes from runny to slightly thick to a thick paste that pulls cleanly from the bottom of the pan when the spoon is drawn through. Off the heat, cool fully, then roll into small balls and drop in chocolate sprinkles.
Onion is softened in oil; garlic, ginger and curry powder bloom. Carrots cook briefly to tender-crisp. Peppers (red and green) and chillies join. Tomatoes simmer everything down. Tinned baked beans go in last with a splash of vinegar to balance. Eaten warm or at room temperature; tastes better the next day.
The vegetarian centrepiece of Bengali Sunday lunches and festival meals, the curry that arrives on the rice plate when fish is off the menu (a Hindu vegetarian day, Saraswati Puja, a temple feast). "Chanar" in Bengali refers to fresh-curdled paneer, "dalna" to a light soupy curry, and the dish is exactly what the name promises. You lightly fry cubes of chhena (or shop paneer if you must) and quartered potatoes until they're pale gold, then simmer them in a thin gravy of mustard oil, whole spices, freshly pounded ginger and ground cumin. There's no onion, no garlic and no tomato in the most traditional version. The dish leans entirely on its whole spices and the ginger paste, which keeps it festival-friendly across vegetarian Hindu households. Eat with a small mound of gobindobhog rice, a wedge of lime on the side, and the chhena half-collapsing into the spiced broth as you spoon.
Three sweet components are prepared separately: red beans simmered until tender then mixed with sugar, split mung beans cooked until just holding shape and lightly sweetened, and pandan-flavoured agar jelly cut into small cubes. Each layer goes into a glass with crushed ice between them and a generous drizzle of sweetened coconut cream over the top.
A deeply complex, rich sauce combining charred tomatoes with smoldering chipotle peppers, garlic, and red wine. The result is a sophisticated, multi-layered sauce with warm spice, subtle smoke, and complex depth that elevates barbecue fare from simple to restaurant-quality.
Sticky rice is soaked, steamed and pressed around small Asian bananas (Chuối sứ), wrapped in banana leaves and grilled until the rice forms a chewy crust. A coconut cream sauce thickened with a little cornflour and salt is spooned over the split-open bundles, and toasted peanuts and sesame finish the top. The contrast of crisp-burnt outside, soft hot banana, and cool coconut sauce is the whole point.
Whole black urad lentils and a small handful of red kidney beans are soaked overnight, then pressure-cooked or simmered until completely tender. A tomato-and-spice masala is built separately with onion, garlic, ginger and a careful hand with the spices. The lentils are folded into the masala and simmered, low and slow, for two hours, while butter and cream are stirred through in the final stage. The lentils break down into a glossy, almost-velvet finish.
Brined vine leaves are soaked for 20 minutes to leach the brine. Filling: short-grain rice is par-cooked for 10 minutes with onion in olive oil; off heat, dill, mint, parsley, pine nuts, currants and lemon zest are stirred through. Each leaf is given a teaspoon of cool filling and rolled into a tight cigar. The rolls are packed tight in a heavy pot lined with broken / extra leaves. Olive oil, lemon juice and stock are poured in to barely cover. Weighed down with an inverted plate. Slow-simmered for 50-60 minutes. Cooled in the liquid; served at room temperature.
Corn kernels, fresh in season, frozen the rest of the year, are charred in a hot dry pan with a bit of oil until many kernels are blackened. Off the heat: mayo, sour cream, lime, garlic, chilli powder and cheese are folded through. Coriander and more cheese top each bowl.