Aloo Posto

Aloo Posto

Aloo posto is the dish that Bengalis abroad miss most. Posto, white poppy seed, is so essential to the cuisine of West Bengal that there are entire menus built around it: aloo posto, posto bora (poppyseed fritters), jhinge posto, even ilish posto with hilsa fish. The seeds are soaked, ground to a fine, creamy paste, and cooked just enough to lose their raw note while keeping their pale colour and nutty perfume. This is one of the simplest preparations in the repertoire, and yet a much-debated one: how fine should the paste be (very fine), should onion be added (in West Bengal generally not, in Bangladeshi versions sometimes yes), how much green chilli is right (one or two slit, not pounded), and crucially, what oil (always mustard, always heated to smoke point first). The tempering is austere: just kalo jeere (nigella seeds) and a slit chilli. There is no garam masala, no cumin, no turmeric. The dish is meant to be quiet, almost pale, eaten with a small mound of plain rice and a dollop of ghee on a hot Kolkata afternoon. It is technically a side dish but in a traditional Bengali thali order it is often served as a course on its own, between the leafy greens and the dal, before the fish curry arrives. For a home cook the only real challenge is grinding the posto fine enough; a small spice grinder or wet-dry blender does the job perfectly.

Sides 1 hour 5 minutes Serves4
Atchara

Atchara

Green papaya is peeled, seeded and shredded on a coarse grater. Carrot, ginger, garlic, red pepper, onion and raisins are all prepared in matching shreds. The vegetables are salted and rested for 1 hour to draw water; rinsed and squeezed dry. A syrup of cane vinegar, sugar and whole peppercorns simmers for 5 minutes. Hot syrup is poured over the vegetables in a sterilised jar. The jar is sealed, cooled and refrigerated overnight before eating. Improves over the following week.

Sides 1 hour 40 minutes Serves1
Balachaung

Balachaung

The Burmese dried-shrimp relish that sits in a jar in every Yangon kitchen, the seasoning you reach for to lift a plate of plain rice into something memorable. You pulse-grind dried shrimp to a coarse floss, then fry a pile of sliced garlic and shallot in oil until they're deep golden and crisp. The dried shrimp joins them and toasts to a fragrant rust colour. Chilli powder, fish sauce, tamarind, sugar and a splash of water turn the lot into a sticky red-brown relish. Cook until the oil clears (twelve to fifteen minutes), cool, store in a jar. Eat by the spoonful with rice, or as a side to grilled meat or fish.

Sides 40 minutes Serves12
Begun Bhaja

Begun Bhaja

Begun bhaja is the simplest, oldest and most loved of Bengali sides. Begun is the Bengali word for aubergine, bhaja means fried, and the dish is exactly what it sounds like: thick, round slices of aubergine, salted and turmericked, then shallow-fried in mustard oil. It is served on the rice plate alongside the dal, traditionally as the second course after shukto, and is eaten by pressing a slice with the back of the thumb onto a small mound of rice and dal. The dish has only four ingredients and yet there are countless mistakes a cook can make: slicing the aubergine too thin (it disintegrates), not resting it after salting (it spits in the oil and stays soggy), under-heating the mustard oil (it tastes raw and acrid), or flipping the slices too soon (they tear). Done properly, the slice should have a thin crisp shell from the natural sugars caramelising on contact with hot oil, and a yielding silky centre. Some households dust the slices with a little rice flour or semolina for an extra-crisp coat; the purist version uses nothing at all. The variety of aubergine matters too: the long pale lavender Bangladeshi begun or the round dark-purple kalo begun both work, but the slim Japanese aubergine does not give enough flesh. Begun bhaja is humble, fast and beloved across all classes and both sides of Bengal, served in Kolkata bhater hotels (rice canteens) and at Dhaka wedding feasts alike.

Sides 40 minutes Serves4
Chana Chaat

Chana Chaat

Cooked chickpeas (tinned for speed, OR overnight-soaked and home-cooked for the best texture) toss with diced red onion, finely chopped tomato, small-diced boiled potato and chopped fresh coriander. The dressing: lemon juice, chaat masala (a salty-sour spice mix sold at Pakistani shops), roasted ground cumin, Kashmiri chilli powder and a pinch of salt. Hot chilli sauce and tamarind chutney drizzle on; the chaat tosses; crushed papri tops; eat immediately.

Sides 20 minutes Serves4
Chinese Pickled Cucumber

Chinese Pickled Cucumber

Cucumbers are cut into spears (or smashed-and-torn for a rougher texture), salted heavily in a colander 30 minutes to weep, then patted dry. A brine of rice vinegar, sugar, light soy, water, sliced ginger, Sichuan peppercorns and dried red chillies brings to a gentle simmer just to dissolve the sugar; cools to room temperature. The drained cucumber goes into a jar; the cooled brine pours over to submerge; refrigerated for 1 hour minimum (overnight ideal). Eats cold straight from the jar.

Sides 15 minutes Serves6
Ensaladang Talong (Grilled Eggplant Salad)

Ensaladang Talong (Grilled Eggplant Salad)

Long Asian aubergines char directly over a gas flame or hot grill until blackened all over and totally soft inside (poke through to test, no resistance). Cool for 10 minutes; peel away the charred skin (it slips off if cooked enough). Tear the flesh into 5 cm strips. Dress with diced tomato, thin-sliced red onion, fish sauce, white-cane vinegar and calamansi juice. Rest for 5 minutes to let the eggplant absorb the dressing. Serve room temperature.

Sides 27 minutes Serves4
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