In season

May produce

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Beef Si Byan

Beef Si Byan

A Burmese curry from the country's Indian-origin community, sitting somewhere between a Madras and a Burmese ohn-no in spice profile. You marinate chunks of beef chuck or shin in turmeric, fish sauce and salt while you fry onions in oil until they're deep brown - that long onion fry is the foundation. The beef browns in the same oil, then ginger-garlic paste, paprika and chilli powder go in, then tomato and water turn it into a stew. Two hours of slow simmer until the meat falls apart at a fork. The signature finish is the see byan, a deep red-orange oil slick that rises to the top of the curry as it reduces, which is what the dish is named for. Eaten with rice or paratha, and a small bowl of pickled vegetable on the side.

Burmese 3 hours 20 minutes Serves4
Chicken Cafreal

Chicken Cafreal

A vivid green masala is ground from coriander leaves, mint, green chilli, garlic, ginger, cumin, peppercorns and clove with palm vinegar. Chicken pieces are slashed and marinated for at least 4 hours (ideally overnight). The pieces are pan-fried in the marinade-paste over high heat until the herb crust dries out and chars at the edges, with a small splash of water added halfway through to keep the chicken juicy. Served with a wedge of lime and a salad of onion and tomato.

Goan 45 minutes Serves4
Mathloutha

Mathloutha

The Saudi gathering platter built for the night when one cut of meat isn't enough. Three proteins share the same pot: lamb shoulder and beef chunks go in first with a kabsa-spiced tomato base for ninety minutes of slow simmer until they're meltingly tender, then chicken pieces drop in for the last thirty-five minutes (their cook time is shorter, so they go in later). The strained meat broth, deeply spiced from everything that has braised in it, becomes the cooking liquid for basmati scented with saffron and dried lime. At the end you arrange all three meats on top of the rice in the same platter and bring the whole thing to the centre of the table. The kind of dish you make for a wedding lunch, an Eid gathering, or the night the extended family arrives unannounced.

Arabian 3 hours Serves8
Octopus Curry (Cari Ourite)

Octopus Curry (Cari Ourite)

Cari ourite is the dish that turns up at every Mauritian fisherman's Sunday lunch, and at every Creole restaurant on the south coast. The technique is to braise octopus low and slow in a tomato-and-onion masala that leans on fresh thyme and a finishing pinch of garam masala instead of the heavier dried-spice masalas you find in cari boeuf or cari poulet. Octopus has a sweet, slightly mineral flavour that needs space, so the seasoning is restrained: thyme for aroma, tomato for body, ginger and garlic for the base, mild curry powder for depth, garam masala right at the end for top-note warmth. The tentacles cook for around 45 minutes (small octopus) to an hour (larger). The biggest variable is the octopus itself; small frozen octopus, sold cleaned at most fishmongers and many supermarkets, is reliable and the freezing actually helps tenderise the flesh. Difficulty is moderate; the cook is mostly passive once the masala is built. Serve with plain steamed rice and a satini cotomili (coriander chutney) or a spoon of pickled chilli. A simple green salad with vinaigrette on the side keeps it honest.

Mauritian 1 hour 25 minutes Serves4
Suya

Suya

Beef sirloin or rump is sliced very thin across the grain. A suya spice (yaji) is made by grinding dry-roasted unsalted peanuts with ground ginger, cayenne, paprika, garlic powder, onion powder, ground cloves and salt, the peanut acts as the carrier and gives suya its unique nutty edge. Half the spice rubs into the beef; the strips marinate for 1 hour. They're threaded onto pre-soaked bamboo skewers in an accordion fold, brushed with oil, and grilled over high heat 4-5 minutes per side until charred at the edges. Fresh out of the fire, the skewers are dipped/rolled in the reserved dry spice, served with sliced raw red onion, tomato and shredded cabbage. Maggi and a wedge of lime alongside.

Nigerian 1 hour 37 minutes Serves4
Trinidadian Curry Goat

Trinidadian Curry Goat

Trinidadian curry goat sits in a quiet rivalry with Jamaican curry goat, but the two are different dishes. Jamaican curry goat is built on Madras-style curry powder, scotch bonnet and allspice with little coconut and a wetter finish. Trinidadian curry goat is built on a fresh blend of green seasoning (a herb-and-aromatic puree of culantro, thyme, garlic, chives and onion), Caribbean curry powder (which leans heavily on amchar masala and roasted geera), and the bunjay technique of frying the curry paste in oil until it splits before the meat goes in. The result is a darker, herbier, drier curry that hugs the bone rather than pooling around it. Kid goat is the preferred meat; older mutton-goat works but takes longer. UK home cooks can usually find kid goat at Caribbean butchers, Halal butchers and many Asian supermarkets in the chilled or frozen section. Bone-in pieces are essential for flavour and gelatin. Lamb shoulder on the bone makes an honest substitute. Difficulty is low to moderate; the cook is mostly long and passive once the curry is bunjayed. Serve with paratha-style "buss-up-shut" roti, dhalpuri roti, white rice, or coconut rice.

Trinidadian 4 hours 5 minutes Serves6