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Brown Stew Shrimp and Sweet Potato Grits

Brown Stew Shrimp and Sweet Potato Grits

A Caribbean-Southern crossover that works because both traditions cook in a similar register: butter, peppers, alliums, slow heat, savoury depth. The brown stew base on top of the dish is Jamaican, bell peppers, carrot, Scotch bonnet, ginger, browning sauce, that mahogany-coloured gravy with the unmistakable allspice-and-thyme signature, and the bed underneath is from Lowcountry Charleston, where sweet potato grits enriched with butter, half-and-half and gouda are a long-running modern Southern restaurant standard. The shrimp themselves are quick-cooked and sweet, picking up the brown stew sauce. Two textures stacked: silky-rich grits, brothy stew on top with bite from the diced peppers and carrot. Smell is sweet-onion-and-browning-sugar over the corn-sweet base of the grits. Not difficult but it's two pans running at once, so timing matters; the grits hold on a low warm setting while the shrimp cook quickly. A modern fusion rather than a traditional dish, popularised by Black American chefs in the 2010s exploring the points of overlap between Lowcountry and Caribbean cookery.

Jamaican 1 hour Serves4
Bubble and Squeak

Bubble and Squeak

The British Boxing Day breakfast, the dish invented to give yesterday's roast leftovers something useful to do. You roughly mash cooked potatoes with cooked greens (cabbage or sprouts traditionally), press the lot into a hot buttered pan, and leave it alone until a deep brown crust forms underneath. Then you flip it (in one heroic motion if you're brave, in broken pieces if you're sensible) and let the second side brown too. The name comes from the bubbling and squeaking the dish makes as it cooks. Eaten with a fried egg on top and a few slices of cold ham or yesterday's gravy, ideally with a strong cup of tea on the side and the remains of Christmas Day still on the kitchen table.

British 35 minutes Serves4
Ema Datshi

Ema Datshi

Bhutan's national dish, built on an honest two-ingredient premise: chillies and cheese, in roughly equal volume. The flavour is two things held in tension. The fierce burn of green chillies (jalapeños standing in for the hotter, more floral local Bhutanese varieties) on one side, the funky salty richness of blue cheese (Stilton or Gorgonzola standing in for the traditional yak cheese) on the other. The dairy fat tempers the burn just enough that you can actually eat it, but only just. The burn is the point. You build the dish out with beef, potato and tomato into a proper stew, and everything goes into the pot together to simmer until the cheese melts down into a fierce, creamy, chilli-flecked sauce. Eaten with red Bhutanese rice at most meals in Bhutan. Halve the chilli count the first time you cook it; the locals will laugh, but you'll be able to taste your next meal.

Bhutanese 50 minutes Serves6
Gratin Dauphinois

Gratin Dauphinois

Waxy potatoes (Yukon Gold, Charlotte, or any low-starch variety) are peeled and sliced very thinly, 2-3 mm. A wide shallow gratin dish (or oven-safe heavy pan) is rubbed all over with a halved garlic clove, then heavily buttered. A cream-and-milk mixture warms in a saucepan with crushed garlic, salt, pepper, and a generous grating of nutmeg, brought just to a simmer, then strained. Potatoes layer in the dish, overlapping like shingles, with a sprinkle of salt and a few grinds of pepper between layers. The infused cream pours over to come up to (not over) the top layer. Baked at 160°C for about 90 minutes until the potatoes are fork-tender and the top is bubbling and golden-brown.

Sides 1 hour 50 minutes Serves6
Kewa Datshi

Kewa Datshi

The gentler, more domestic cousin of ema datshi: a Bhutanese family supper of potatoes simmered with chilli and cheese into a creamy, lively sauce. You slice waxy potatoes into thin rounds and drop them into a single pot with green chillies, onion, garlic, butter and the cheese mixture, then cover with water and simmer for about twenty-five minutes until the potatoes are tender and the cheese has melted into a thick, pale-yellow chilli-flecked sauce. The technique is the simplest in Bhutanese cooking: everything goes in together and cooks down without ceremony. The art is in the chilli-to-cheese ratio. More chilli and the dish reads as fiery; more cheese and it reads as rich. Either way it's eaten with red Bhutanese rice, the potatoes half-melting into the rice as you spoon.

Bhutanese 35 minutes Serves4
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