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Green papaya is peeled, seeded and shredded on a coarse grater. Carrot, ginger, garlic, red pepper, onion and raisins are all prepared in matching shreds. The vegetables are salted and rested for 1 hour to draw water; rinsed and squeezed dry. A syrup of cane vinegar, sugar and whole peppercorns simmers for 5 minutes. Hot syrup is poured over the vegetables in a sterilised jar. The jar is sealed, cooled and refrigerated overnight before eating. Improves over the following week.
A stiff bread dough - much firmer than sandwich bread - kneaded long, given a first rise, divided and shaped into rings, cold-proofed overnight in the fridge for flavour development, then boiled briefly in a sweetened water bath before baking. The boil sets the crust and gives the characteristic shiny mahogany surface; the bake finishes the inside. Topped with seeds while wet so they stick.
A whole aubergine is charred directly over a gas flame until the skin is blackened and the flesh inside is soft. The charred skin is peeled off and the flesh roughly mashed. A masala of onion, garlic, ginger, green chilli and tomato is cooked down to a thick base, and the smoky aubergine flesh is folded through with a finishing touch of garam masala and coriander. Vegetable-side or vegetarian main; the smoke is what makes it.
The okra is washed, dried thoroughly and trimmed, then cut into 2 cm pieces. A dry-fry over high heat for 10 minutes cooks away the surface moisture that causes slime. Onion is then browned with whole cumin in a separate go, ginger and garlic added, tomato cooked down with the ground spices, and the dry-fried okra folded in for a final dry simmer. Finished with garam masala, amchur and coriander.
Dried black-eyed peas, soaked overnight, simmered low and slow with a smoked ham hock and aromatics. The hock seasons the broth and gives up its meat at the end of the cook. Finished with a splash of cider vinegar to brighten and a pinch of cayenne for warmth. Eaten in shallow bowls with the broth, often spooned over rice.
Salt cod soaks for 24 hours with several water changes to draw out the salt. Once desalted, it's poached, flaked and folded into hot mashed potato with onion, parsley, egg and a pinch of pepper. The mix is shaped between two tablespoons into the classic oval (two-spoon quenelle shape) and deep-fried.
Bolo do caco is the Madeiran flatbread you'll get at every restaurant on the island, traditionally cooked on a hot basalt stone (the caco) but very happily on a heavy dry griddle at home. The dough is straightforward (strong flour, yeast, salt, water) with one twist: a small boiled and mashed orange sweet potato folded in, which gives the bread its faintly sweet edge and golden colour. After a single rise, you divide the dough, shape into 18 cm rounds, and press them onto a hot dry pan for five minutes a side until both faces are charred-spotted. Split horizontally, slathered with garlic-parsley butter, and closed back like a sandwich. Eat hot; it does not keep.
Croutons fry in olive oil with garlic. Romaine lettuce washes and crisps. Dressing whisks together: egg yolk, garlic, anchovies, mustard, lemon, parmesan, slowly emulsified with olive oil. Toss; pile on plates with shavings of parmesan.
Aubergine cubes are salted to weep, fried hard in olive oil to deep gold, and reserved. A separate pan is used to soften diced onion and sliced celery in olive oil; garlic joins briefly; chopped tomatoes simmer with red wine vinegar and sugar to make the agrodolce base. Green olives, capers, sultanas (optional) and toasted pine nuts are stirred in. The fried aubergine is returned and simmers for 10 minutes to meld. Off heat, fresh basil is scattered. Rested at least 2 hours (ideally overnight) before serving at room temperature.
Chicken thighs cube small; marinate for 1 hour in yogurt, ginger-garlic paste, Kashmiri chilli, garam masala and cornflour. Deep-fried in two stages, first to cook through, second to crisp. While the chicken rests, a hot tempering of curry leaves, garlic, dried chillies, soy and vinegar sputters in a wok. The fried chicken tosses through the tempering for 30 seconds and goes straight to the plate.
A classic Roman salad featuring crisp cos lettuce coated in a rich, anchovy-based dressing with crispy croutons, tender chicken, and pancetta. The soft-boiled egg adds creaminess to the velvety emulsified dressing.
Dried hulled white corn (nixtamalised, also called posole or hominy corn, distinct from tinned hominy) soaks overnight. Pork hocks (or venison neck, or smoked turkey legs) simmer in salted water 2 hours to make a rich broth. Soaked corn joins; cooks for 45 minutes more until tender. Tinned red kidney beans go in; the soup simmers for 15 minutes to integrate. Salt to taste. Served plain, possibly with a side of frybread.
Yellow-corn masarepa hydrates with water, salt and a pinch of paprika for colour. Beef mince cooks with onion, tomato cumin and oregano; cooked potato dices fold in for body. The dough divides; each ball flattens between two pieces of cling film into thin discs; filling goes in the centre; folded into a half-moon, sealed with damp fingers, fried.
Dried chickpeas soak overnight, do not cook them. Blitz with onion, garlic, herbs and spices to a coarse green paste. Rest for 1 hour. A pinch of baking powder mixes in just before frying. Shape into balls; deep-fry at 175°C 4 minutes until darkly crusted. Stuffed into pita with hummus, tahina, salata, pickles.
Chicken poaches with onion, cardamom and bay 35 minutes; shredded off the bone. Chickpeas warm in the strained chicken stock. Pita pieces toast crisp under the grill. Yogurt-tahini-garlic sauce whisks together. Plated with pita on the bottom, chickpeas and chicken on top, yogurt sauce poured over, taqliya (butter, cumin and sliced garlic sizzled hot) drizzled on top, and pine nuts scattered.
Pita breads are torn into pieces and toasted (or fried) until crisp and crunchy. Chopped vegetables, mint, parsley and a sumac-lemon-olive-oil dressing are tossed together; the toasted pita goes in last so it stays crunchy. Eaten immediately before the bread goes soft.
A torn pita is brushed with olive oil and grilled or fried until golden and crisp. Cucumber, tomato, radish, romaine, spring onion, parsley and mint are roughly chopped into a wide bowl. A dressing of lemon juice, pomegranate molasses, sumac, garlic, olive oil and salt is whisked. The salad is tossed with the dressing just before serving; the pita is scattered on top so it stays crisp.
The Saudi take on foul medames, somewhere between the Egyptian original and the Yemeni daal-like versions. You soak dried fava beans overnight, then simmer them with a chickpea or two and a garlic clove for six hours low and slow (or pressure-cook for forty-five minutes if you don't have the day) until they're so soft they fall apart at a glance. Once drained, the beans go back into a hot pan with olive oil and garlic, cumin and a hit of chilli; you crush them roughly with a fork (chunky, not smooth) and finish with lemon and a handful of chopped parsley. Eaten warm for breakfast across the Gulf, scooped with flatbread, with a side of pickles or salata hara, and a glass of mint tea.
Firm green tomatoes slice 8 mm thick. Salt 10 minutes to draw water. Dredge: seasoned flour → beaten egg + buttermilk → seasoned cornmeal + breadcrumbs (this triple-dredge gives the crispiest coat). Shallow-fry in oil at 180°C until deep gold. Drain; salt; serve with rémoulade.
Pinto beans are soaked overnight, then simmered with onion and garlic until tender. A separate pan crisps the bacon, browns the chorizo and softens the onion, jalapeño and tomato into a thick base. The two are combined for a final simmer with coriander, and the broth turns smoky, salty and rich. Eaten by the spoonful from a bowl, or set out alongside grilled meats and tortillas.