In season

May produce

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Andhra Chicken Curry

Andhra Chicken Curry

Chicken thighs are marinated briefly with turmeric, ginger-garlic paste, yogurt and a pinch of red chilli. A dry-roast of poppy seeds, sesame seeds, coconut, fennel, coriander and dried red chillies is ground with a splash of water into a coarse paste. The base is built with shallots, curry leaves and tomato; the chicken is browned in stages; and the masala paste is folded in for the long, gentle simmer. Tamarind and a curry-leaf temper finish.

Indian 1 hour 35 minutes Serves4-6
Buttermilk Fried Chicken

Buttermilk Fried Chicken

The Southern Sunday dinner that defined a region. You start the night before, sinking bone-in chicken pieces into a buttermilk brine spiked with hot sauce and garlic so the acid tenderises the meat and the seasoning works its way deep. The next day comes the double-dredge: a roll through heavily-seasoned flour, a brief dip back in the buttermilk, then another roll through the flour, which is what gives the finished bird its craggy, almost lacy crust. Into 175°C oil for twelve to fifteen minutes per piece, turned every few minutes so the crust browns evenly. You're done when the coating is deep mahogany and a thermometer in the thigh reads 75°C. Drain on a wire rack rather than paper so the steam escapes and the crust stays shattering. Eat hot with a stack of pickles, a soft biscuit and a bottle of hot sauce on the table; cold the next day at the kitchen counter is its own justified American ritual.

American 40 minutes Serves4
Chicken with Cashews

Chicken with Cashews

This is a hugely popular dish at Thai restaurants and takeaways, and my family love it. It is important to cut the chicken pieces so that they are about the same size as the cashews (although this is more for presentation as large chunks also work fine). You can mix the sauce and fry the cashews, chillies and chicken a day or so in advance, making this a dish you can cook up very quickly after work with little mess. The first time I tried making this recipe, I burnt the cashews and chillies. Don’t make the same mistake or you’ll have to start all over again. They don’t take long to colour in the oil and cashews aren’t cheap, so keep an eye on them. Although there’s nothing stopping you from doing so, the dried and fried chillies are not meant to be eaten. I like to serve this curry with jasmine rice.

Thai 30 minutes Serves4
Chicken Xacuti

Chicken Xacuti

A xacuti masala is built by dry-roasting fresh coconut to a deep mahogany brown alongside a long list of whole spices (Kashmiri and byadgi chillies, coriander, cumin, fennel, peppercorns, cinnamon, cloves, star anise, mace) and grinding them with onion, garlic and ginger into a black-brown paste. The chicken is browned briefly, the paste added, water poured in to cook the chicken through, and tamarind stirred in to finish. The trick is in the roast: the coconut should be almost-burnt, with the bitterness offset by the tamarind.

Goan 1 hour 20 minutes Serves4-6
Kabsa

Kabsa

Saudi Arabia's national dish, the one platter you'll meet at almost every gathering from family lunch through wedding banquet. You brown chicken pieces or lamb shoulder hard in a heavy pot, then build a base of onion, garlic and ginger softened in the same fat, with tomato and a spoonful of baharat (or a dedicated kabsa spice mix) blooming until the kitchen fills with cardamom and cinnamon. The protein simmers in tomato and stock until it's tender and pulling away from the bone, then long-grain rice goes in to cook absorption-style in the same liquid, drinking up every layer of flavour the broth carries. You finish with almonds toasted in butter, raisins plumped briefly, and a fresh salsa of tomato, onion, chilli and parsley spooned on the side to cut the richness. Eaten communally from the centre platter, with hands or a long spoon.

Arabian 1 hour 35 minutes Serves6
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