
Andhra Chicken Curry
Andhra Pradesh chicken curry: properly hot, dried-red-chilli forward, simmered in a coconut-and-poppy-seed gravy. The South Indian heat-bomb that still tastes nuanced underneath.
Overview
Chicken thighs are marinated briefly with turmeric, ginger-garlic paste, yogurt and a pinch of red chilli. A dry-roast of poppy seeds, sesame seeds, coconut, fennel, coriander and dried red chillies is ground with a splash of water into a coarse paste. The base is built with shallots, curry leaves and tomato; the chicken is browned in stages; and the masala paste is folded in for the long, gentle simmer. Tamarind and a curry-leaf temper finish.
Ingredients
Marinade
- 1 kg chicken thighs (skinless, boneless, cut into 4 cm pieces)
- 1 tablespoon ginger-garlic paste
- 1 teaspoon turmeric
- 100 g natural yogurt
- 1 teaspoon Kashmiri chilli powder
- 1 teaspoon salt
Andhra masala paste
- 2 tablespoons white poppy seeds (khus khus; substitute desiccated coconut if unavailable)
- 1 tablespoon white sesame seeds
- 1 tablespoon coriander seeds
- 1 teaspoon fennel seeds
- 6-8 dried Kashmiri chillies (mild, for colour)
- 2-4 dried byadgi (or guntur chillies, for the heat; adjust to taste)
- 40 g fresh grated coconut (or 30 g desiccated)
- 4 garlic cloves
- 25 g fresh ginger
Curry
- 3 tablespoons sesame oil (or vegetable oil)
- 1 teaspoon black mustard seeds
- 1 teaspoon cumin seeds
- 20 fresh curry leaves
- 2 onions (finely chopped)
- 2 ripe tomatoes (chopped)
- 1 tablespoon tamarind paste (or a walnut-sized lump of tamarind in 100 ml hot water, strained)
- 600 ml water
- 1 teaspoon salt (to taste)
To finish
- A handful of fresh coriander (chopped)
- ½ lime (juice)
Method
Stage 1 - Marinate
- Combine the chicken with the ginger-garlic paste, turmeric, yogurt, Kashmiri chilli and salt.
- Set aside for 30 minutes.
Stage 2 - Toast and grind the masala
- Dry-toast the poppy seeds, sesame, coriander and fennel in a pan over medium-low heat for 1-2 minutes until fragrant.
- Add the dried red chillies and toast for 30 seconds (they'll darken and puff slightly).
- Add the fresh coconut and toast for another 2 minutes until pale gold.
- Cool, then grind with the garlic and ginger in a spice grinder with 3 tablespoons of water to a coarse paste.
Stage 3 - Temper and build the base
- Heat the sesame oil in a wide pan over medium heat.
- Add the mustard seeds; when they pop, add the cumin and curry leaves.
- Add the chopped onions and a pinch of salt.
- Cook for 10 minutes until deep golden.
Stage 4 - Brown the chicken
- Lift the chicken out of the marinade, scraping off and reserving the excess.
- Add the chicken to the pan in two batches; brown for 4-5 minutes a batch.
- Return all the chicken to the pan with any reserved marinade.
Stage 5 - The masala
- Stir in the andhra masala paste.
- Cook for 5-6 minutes, stirring, until the oil starts to separate from the masala at the edges.
- Add the chopped tomato, tamarind paste, water and salt.
- Bring to a gentle simmer.
- Cover partially and cook for 20-25 minutes, stirring occasionally, until the chicken is tender and the gravy has thickened.
Stage 6 - Finish
- Taste and adjust salt; add the lime juice.
- Scatter the coriander.
- Serve with steamed rice, dosa or roti.
Notes
- Choose the chillies: Andhra cooking uses 8-12 dried chillies in one curry. Kashmiri for colour, guntur or byadgi for the heat. Adjust the ratio to your tolerance; the dish should be hot but not burn the tongue raw.
- Poppy seeds for body: Khus khus thickens the gravy and gives the dish its slightly creamy texture without dairy. If you can't find them, desiccated coconut is a substitute, though the dish ends up sweeter.
- Don't skip the dry-toast: The toasting is what brings out the fennel and sesame; raw-blend gives a flat masala.
Storage
- Refrigerate up to 4 days; tastes better on day two.
- Freezes well for 2 months.
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