Andhra Chicken Curry
Serves 4-6 Prep 50 min Cook 45 min Total 1 hr 35 min Type Meal Origin Indian

Andhra Chicken Curry

Andhra Pradesh chicken curry: properly hot, dried-red-chilli forward, simmered in a coconut-and-poppy-seed gravy. The South Indian heat-bomb that still tastes nuanced underneath.

Serves 4 Prep 20 minutes (plus 30 minutes marinade) Cook 45 minutes Units Rate

Overview

Chicken thighs are marinated briefly with turmeric, ginger-garlic paste, yogurt and a pinch of red chilli. A dry-roast of poppy seeds, sesame seeds, coconut, fennel, coriander and dried red chillies is ground with a splash of water into a coarse paste. The base is built with shallots, curry leaves and tomato; the chicken is browned in stages; and the masala paste is folded in for the long, gentle simmer. Tamarind and a curry-leaf temper finish.

Ingredients

Marinade

  • 1 kg chicken thighs (skinless, boneless, cut into 4 cm pieces)
  • 1 tablespoon ginger-garlic paste
  • 1 teaspoon turmeric
  • 100 g natural yogurt
  • 1 teaspoon Kashmiri chilli powder
  • 1 teaspoon salt

Andhra masala paste

  • 2 tablespoons white poppy seeds (khus khus; substitute desiccated coconut if unavailable)
  • 1 tablespoon white sesame seeds
  • 1 tablespoon coriander seeds
  • 1 teaspoon fennel seeds
  • 6-8 dried Kashmiri chillies (mild, for colour)
  • 2-4 dried byadgi (or guntur chillies, for the heat; adjust to taste)
  • 40 g fresh grated coconut (or 30 g desiccated)
  • 4 garlic cloves
  • 25 g fresh ginger

Curry

  • 3 tablespoons sesame oil (or vegetable oil)
  • 1 teaspoon black mustard seeds
  • 1 teaspoon cumin seeds
  • 20 fresh curry leaves
  • 2 onions (finely chopped)
  • 2 ripe tomatoes (chopped)
  • 1 tablespoon tamarind paste (or a walnut-sized lump of tamarind in 100 ml hot water, strained)
  • 600 ml water
  • 1 teaspoon salt (to taste)

To finish

  • A handful of fresh coriander (chopped)
  • ½ lime (juice)

Method

Stage 1 - Marinate

  1. Combine the chicken with the ginger-garlic paste, turmeric, yogurt, Kashmiri chilli and salt.
  2. Set aside for 30 minutes.

Stage 2 - Toast and grind the masala

  1. Dry-toast the poppy seeds, sesame, coriander and fennel in a pan over medium-low heat for 1-2 minutes until fragrant.
  2. Add the dried red chillies and toast for 30 seconds (they'll darken and puff slightly).
  3. Add the fresh coconut and toast for another 2 minutes until pale gold.
  4. Cool, then grind with the garlic and ginger in a spice grinder with 3 tablespoons of water to a coarse paste.

Stage 3 - Temper and build the base

  1. Heat the sesame oil in a wide pan over medium heat.
  2. Add the mustard seeds; when they pop, add the cumin and curry leaves.
  3. Add the chopped onions and a pinch of salt.
  4. Cook for 10 minutes until deep golden.

Stage 4 - Brown the chicken

  1. Lift the chicken out of the marinade, scraping off and reserving the excess.
  2. Add the chicken to the pan in two batches; brown for 4-5 minutes a batch.
  3. Return all the chicken to the pan with any reserved marinade.

Stage 5 - The masala

  1. Stir in the andhra masala paste.
  2. Cook for 5-6 minutes, stirring, until the oil starts to separate from the masala at the edges.
  3. Add the chopped tomato, tamarind paste, water and salt.
  4. Bring to a gentle simmer.
  5. Cover partially and cook for 20-25 minutes, stirring occasionally, until the chicken is tender and the gravy has thickened.

Stage 6 - Finish

  1. Taste and adjust salt; add the lime juice.
  2. Scatter the coriander.
  3. Serve with steamed rice, dosa or roti.

Notes

  • Choose the chillies: Andhra cooking uses 8-12 dried chillies in one curry. Kashmiri for colour, guntur or byadgi for the heat. Adjust the ratio to your tolerance; the dish should be hot but not burn the tongue raw.
  • Poppy seeds for body: Khus khus thickens the gravy and gives the dish its slightly creamy texture without dairy. If you can't find them, desiccated coconut is a substitute, though the dish ends up sweeter.
  • Don't skip the dry-toast: The toasting is what brings out the fennel and sesame; raw-blend gives a flat masala.

Storage

  • Refrigerate up to 4 days; tastes better on day two.
  • Freezes well for 2 months.

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