Chana Chaat

Chana Chaat

Cooked chickpeas (tinned for speed, OR overnight-soaked and home-cooked for the best texture) toss with diced red onion, finely chopped tomato, small-diced boiled potato and chopped fresh coriander. The dressing: lemon juice, chaat masala (a salty-sour spice mix sold at Pakistani shops), roasted ground cumin, Kashmiri chilli powder and a pinch of salt. Hot chilli sauce and tamarind chutney drizzle on; the chaat tosses; crushed papri tops; eat immediately.

Sides 20 minutes Serves4
Choban Salata (Azerbaijani Shepherd's Salad)

Choban Salata (Azerbaijani Shepherd's Salad)

The Azerbaijani version of the shepherd's salad that turns up in some form on every table from the Balkans to Persia, the bright herby counter to anything rich coming out of the kitchen. You dice tomatoes, cucumber and red onion to five-millimetre cubes (smaller than a typical chopped salad, almost a relish) and chop the herbs fine: dill, mint and tarragon, the tarragon being the move that distinguishes the Azeri version from its neighbours. Everything tosses together with olive oil, lemon juice and salt about fifteen minutes before serving, so the salt draws the tomato juice out and the salad relaxes into itself. Best the same day; the salad weeps if held overnight. Eat with grilled meat, with plov, with lavash, with whatever the main is.

Sides 15 minutes Serves4
Foul Saudi

Foul Saudi

The Saudi take on foul medames, somewhere between the Egyptian original and the Yemeni daal-like versions. You soak dried fava beans overnight, then simmer them with a chickpea or two and a garlic clove for six hours low and slow (or pressure-cook for forty-five minutes if you don't have the day) until they're so soft they fall apart at a glance. Once drained, the beans go back into a hot pan with olive oil and garlic, cumin and a hit of chilli; you crush them roughly with a fork (chunky, not smooth) and finish with lemon and a handful of chopped parsley. Eaten warm for breakfast across the Gulf, scooped with flatbread, with a side of pickles or salata hara, and a glass of mint tea.

Sides 6 hours 55 minutes Serves4
Patatas Bravas

Patatas Bravas

Maris Piper or floury potatoes peel and cube 2 ½ cm. Double-cook for shatter-crisp shell + fluffy interior: blanch / boil for 8 minutes till just tender, drain, cool slightly. Brava sauce: olive oil heats with garlic and a touch of flour; smoked paprika + cayenne stir in 30 seconds; tomato passata, sherry vinegar, salt, sugar; simmer for 15 minutes; blend if you want a smooth sauce or leave rustic. Optional garlic aioli: garlic-and-egg-yolk mayonnaise. Potatoes fry in hot oil 6-8 minutes till deep gold. Plate with sauce zigzagged over; aioli alongside.

Sides 50 minutes Serves4
Pebre

Pebre

Chile's table salsa, the fresh chunky relish that turns up in a small bowl next to bread before any meal and stays on the table until everything is gone. You chop tomato, onion and coriander fine (smaller than a chopped salad, almost a relish), then combine with crushed garlic, ají chilli (or red chilli if ají isn't around), olive oil, vinegar or lemon, salt and pepper. Fold gently and let sit for ten minutes so the flavours mingle. Eaten with fresh bread before a meal, spooned over grilled meat, alongside empanadas, with chorrillana, with cazuela. Basically with anything savoury that comes out of a Chilean kitchen.

Sides 12 minutes Serves6
Salata Afghani

Salata Afghani

Salata afghani is the salad that goes alongside every Afghan main, no exceptions: tomato, cucumber and red onion diced fine and even, dressed with lemon, olive oil and dried mint, scattered with fresh coriander. The technique is in the cut. Everything dices the same size (about 5 mm) so a spoonful gives you a clean mouthful of all three vegetables. Whisk the dressing of lemon juice, olive oil, dried mint, salt and a small green chilli; toss it through the diced vegetables at the last minute (the salt draws a little water out and the flavours mingle without dissolving the cucumber). Fresh coriander goes on top right before serving.

Sides 12 minutes Serves4
Salata Hara

Salata Hara

The chunky chopped salad that sits next to almost everything on a Saudi table: the relish that gives kabsa its bright counter, the cool against grilled meat, the freshness against rich rice. You chop tomato, cucumber and onion fine (the size matters: bigger than a salsa, smaller than a Greek salad), throw in parsley and a green chilli or two, and dress with lemon, olive oil, a pinch of cumin and salt. Five minutes' rest before serving lets the salt draw out a little tomato juice, which becomes the dressing the salad makes for itself. Vivid, crunchy, mildly hot, fast enough to put together while the kabsa rests under its lid. Eaten as a side dish, scooped with bread, or spooned over rice as you go.

Sides 12 minutes Serves4
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