Adana Kebab

Adana Kebab

Lamb shoulder and lamb tail fat (or extra fatty trim) chop fine with a heavy knife or zırh (curved blade), proper Adana is hand-cut, never minced through a grinder. The texture has visible pieces of meat and fat the size of small peas. Knead with salt, ground sumac, hot red Aleppo / Maraş chilli flakes (acı biber) and crushed garlic for 6-8 minutes until tacky and clinging to the bowl. Chill for 2 hours. Press a fistful onto a wide flat skewer, working from the centre outward, shaping a 25 cm × 3 cm flat sausage with finger-tip dimples down the length. Grill over hot charcoal 5-6 minutes per side. Slide off skewer onto warm lavash. Rest for 2 minutes; serve.

Turkish 2 hours 42 minutes Serves4
Andouille Skewers

Andouille Skewers

A Cajun cookout skewer, the kind of thing that comes off the grill at a Louisiana backyard barbecue while the gumbo is finishing on the back burner. You take andouille (the heavily smoked, garlicky Cajun pork sausage) and cut it into thick coins, then thread them onto pre-soaked wooden skewers (or metal) with chunks of red and green pepper, red onion, and a few halved cherry tomatoes. Brush with a quick Cajun glaze of melted butter, garlic, brown sugar, hot sauce and Cajun seasoning. Onto a hot grill over high heat for just long enough to char the vegetables and bring the sausage shiny and sticky. Eaten straight off the skewer with a beer in the other hand, the smoke still hanging in the air.

Snacks 27 minutes Serves8
Bunjay-Style Curry Chicken

Bunjay-Style Curry Chicken

A dry curry rather than a saucy one, "bunjay" is Trinidadian patois for "fry-down", the technique of cooking meat in its own juices until the gravy completely disappears and the spices coat the surface of the meat in a sticky, glaze-like crust. The flavour is concentrated rather than diluted; nothing's been thinned with water or coconut milk, so what you taste is bone-in chicken, rendered chicken fat, and toasted spice. The spice mix is the East Indian Trinidadian signature: turmeric for colour and earth, roasted geera (toasted cumin, ground) for nuttiness, anchar masala for tang, regular curry powder for breadth. The pan oil splits and separates around the chicken at the end, which is the visual cue you're looking for. Smell when the curry powder hits hot oil is deeply aromatic, almost incense-like. Not difficult but it requires attention during the cook-down phase; if you walk away the curry burns onto the bottom of the pan. A Trinidadian household staple, eaten across the country with white rice and dhal, and a clean example of how Indian indentured labourers' descendants in the Caribbean evolved a distinct curry tradition over 150 years.

Trinidadian 2 hours 50 minutes Serves6
Cataplana de Marisco

Cataplana de Marisco

A cataplana is a hinged copper clamshell pan, and the seafood stew named after it is one of those dishes where the cookware does the work. You build a base of onions, peppers, sliced chouriço, smoked paprika, tomato and white wine in the bottom of the cataplana, then layer clams, mussels, prawns and chunks of firm white fish on top, clamp the lid shut, and steam it all for less than ten minutes. The lid lifts at the table to release a cloud of paprika-and-wine-scented steam, which is the entire point of the dish. If you do not have a cataplana, any wide pan with a tight lid does the same job. Coriander and lemon at the end, crusty bread for the broth, and vinho verde for everything else.

Portuguese 55 minutes Serves4
Chana Chaat

Chana Chaat

Cooked chickpeas (tinned for speed, OR overnight-soaked and home-cooked for the best texture) toss with diced red onion, finely chopped tomato, small-diced boiled potato and chopped fresh coriander. The dressing: lemon juice, chaat masala (a salty-sour spice mix sold at Pakistani shops), roasted ground cumin, Kashmiri chilli powder and a pinch of salt. Hot chilli sauce and tamarind chutney drizzle on; the chaat tosses; crushed papri tops; eat immediately.

Sides 20 minutes Serves4
Charcoal Chicken Shop Chicken Skewers

Charcoal Chicken Shop Chicken Skewers

The flavour you'd get at a Melbourne charcoal-chicken takeaway, distilled into something you can run at home with a heavy pan instead of a rotisserie. You build a mostly-dry rub from the pantry: garlic powder, onion powder, sweet paprika, mustard powder, dried oregano, and a small amount of curry powder for the warmth that defines suburban-Australian charcoal-chicken shops. The rub wets out with olive oil and a generous squeeze of lemon, and the chicken thighs go in to marinate for twelve to twenty-four hours so the salt and spices penetrate properly. Thread onto skewers, sear hot in batches, rest briefly under foil so the juices settle. The lemon at the table is non-negotiable. Serve with warm flatbread, a chopped salad and a garlic-yogurt or hummus on the side, the kind of plate that arrives wrapped in butcher's paper at the takeaway.

Australian 24 hours 35 minutes Serves4-5
Chicken Karahi

Chicken Karahi

A whole chicken is jointed into 8 bone-in pieces (or 8 thighs). Oil heats in a wide karahi or wok; chicken sears on all sides for colour. Crushed ginger and garlic go in for 1 minute. Halved tomatoes (yes, half-tomatoes, not chopped) tumble in; the lid clamps on; the chicken steam-cooks for 20 minutes in the tomato juices. The lid lifts; the tomato skins come off; the sauce reduces to a thick deep-orange masala. Whole green chillies, freshly crushed black pepper, ground cumin and a dollop of yogurt stir in. Coriander and slivered ginger finish.

Pakistani 1 hour Serves4
Choban Salata (Azerbaijani Shepherd's Salad)

Choban Salata (Azerbaijani Shepherd's Salad)

The Azerbaijani version of the shepherd's salad that turns up in some form on every table from the Balkans to Persia, the bright herby counter to anything rich coming out of the kitchen. You dice tomatoes, cucumber and red onion to five-millimetre cubes (smaller than a typical chopped salad, almost a relish) and chop the herbs fine: dill, mint and tarragon, the tarragon being the move that distinguishes the Azeri version from its neighbours. Everything tosses together with olive oil, lemon juice and salt about fifteen minutes before serving, so the salt draws the tomato juice out and the salad relaxes into itself. Best the same day; the salad weeps if held overnight. Eat with grilled meat, with plov, with lavash, with whatever the main is.

Sides 15 minutes Serves4
Falafel Lebnani

Falafel Lebnani

Dried chickpeas soak overnight (never cooked, chickpeas must remain raw). Drained, blitzed with onion, garlic, a heaped pile of fresh parsley and coriander, ground cumin, ground coriander, salt, black pepper and Aleppo pepper into a coarse green paste. Rested for 30 minutes. Baking soda mixed in just before frying. Shaped into small (3 cm) patties or balls, a falafel scoop (zalabia) gives the cleanest shape but two spoons work. Optionally rolled in sesame seeds. Deep-fried in oil at 175°C for 2-3 minutes per side until amber-gold and crisp. Stuffed into pita with tahini, salad and pickles.

Snacks 37 minutes Serves4
Falafel Palestinian

Falafel Palestinian

Dried chickpeas (or a chickpea-fava blend) soak overnight. Drained, blitzed with onion, leek, a heaped pile of fresh parsley AND coriander (the Palestinian style is herb-heavy and notably green), garlic, ground cumin, ground coriander, salt and Aleppo pepper. Left to rest. Baking soda mixed in right before frying. Shaped into small patties or balls; pressed into sesame seeds; deep-fried until amber. Stuffed into khobz with tahini sauce, salad and pickled vegetables.

Snacks 37 minutes Serves4
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