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Andhra Chicken Curry

Andhra Chicken Curry

Chicken thighs are marinated briefly with turmeric, ginger-garlic paste, yogurt and a pinch of red chilli. A dry-roast of poppy seeds, sesame seeds, coconut, fennel, coriander and dried red chillies is ground with a splash of water into a coarse paste. The base is built with shallots, curry leaves and tomato; the chicken is browned in stages; and the masala paste is folded in for the long, gentle simmer. Tamarind and a curry-leaf temper finish.

Indian 1 hour 35 minutes Serves4-6
Bubur Kacang Hijau (Mung Bean Coconut Porridge)

Bubur Kacang Hijau (Mung Bean Coconut Porridge)

Split mung beans (the green hulled kind) soak optionally 4 hours (cuts cooking time in half but not essential). Beans simmer in water with knotted pandan leaves, sliced ginger and a pinch of salt for 35-45 minutes until soft and split. Palm sugar dissolves in; cooks another 5 minutes. To serve: ladle into bowls; pour thick warm coconut milk over the top. Optional toppings: a sprinkle of fried shallots, a spoon of toasted black sesame, or chunks of toasted sweet bread (the Surabaya street-cart way).

Desserts 5 hours 5 minutes Serves6
Chicken Cafreal

Chicken Cafreal

A vivid green masala is ground from coriander leaves, mint, green chilli, garlic, ginger, cumin, peppercorns and clove with palm vinegar. Chicken pieces are slashed and marinated for at least 4 hours (ideally overnight). The pieces are pan-fried in the marinade-paste over high heat until the herb crust dries out and chars at the edges, with a small splash of water added halfway through to keep the chicken juicy. Served with a wedge of lime and a salad of onion and tomato.

Goan 45 minutes Serves4
Chicken Xacuti

Chicken Xacuti

A xacuti masala is built by dry-roasting fresh coconut to a deep mahogany brown alongside a long list of whole spices (Kashmiri and byadgi chillies, coriander, cumin, fennel, peppercorns, cinnamon, cloves, star anise, mace) and grinding them with onion, garlic and ginger into a black-brown paste. The chicken is browned briefly, the paste added, water poured in to cook the chicken through, and tamarind stirred in to finish. The trick is in the roast: the coconut should be almost-burnt, with the bitterness offset by the tamarind.

Goan 1 hour 20 minutes Serves4-6
Chingri Malai Curry

Chingri Malai Curry

Chingri malai curry is one of those rare Bengali dishes that crosses the river: equally beloved in Kolkata's bonedi households and in the coastal kitchens of Khulna and Chittagong. The name is often misread as a reference to Malaysia (Malay), and there is a folk tradition that the dish came back with Bengali traders from the Malay Peninsula, but in practice malai here simply means cream, in this case the rich first-pressed coconut milk that gives the gravy its body. The prawns must be large, ideally tiger prawns or the freshwater bagda chingri, kept whole with heads and tails on for maximum flavour. The cooking is short and the spice profile delicate: a tempering of whole garam masala in ghee and a little mustard oil, a base of finely ground onion paste rather than chopped onion, a gentle bloom of ginger and turmeric, and then the prawns barely poached in coconut milk so they remain juicy. Sugar plays a quiet but important role, just enough to round the salt and amplify the coconut's sweetness. The result is a curry that is luxurious without being heavy, fragrant without being sharp. It is rich enough to be served with plain basmati or gobindobhog rice and nothing else, though a small wedge of lime on the side is welcome. Overcooked prawns are the only real danger; once you have mastered the timing, this is one of the easier showstoppers in the Bengali repertoire.

Bengali 50 minutes Serves4
Goan Chicken Biryani

Goan Chicken Biryani

Chicken thighs are marinated overnight in a yogurt-and-vinegar paste with a freshly-ground Goan masala (Kashmiri chillies, peppercorns, cinnamon, cloves, coriander, cumin and fennel) plus a touch of toasted coconut and ginger-garlic paste. Basmati is parboiled in salted water with whole spices. Fried onions are crisped and reserved. The biryani is built in layers: marinated chicken, rice, fried onions, saffron milk, mint, coriander, repeated; sealed under a tight lid and cooked under dum for 45 minutes. Distinctively Goan: palm vinegar in the marinade and a small splash of coconut milk in the layering.

Rice 3 hours 45 minutes Serves6
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