In season

May produce

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Apple Strudel

Apple Strudel

The Viennese pastry that holds the cafe culture of Habsburg Europe in a single bite, the apfelstrudel that arrives on a small plate next to your melange at every old coffeehouse from Vienna to Prague. You roll cinnamon-spiced apple, raisins, and toasted breadcrumbs in layers of tissue-thin filo until the pastry is nearly transparent (a real Viennese cook will say you should be able to read a newspaper through it before you fill), then bake the whole roll until the outside is shattering golden. A heavy dust of icing sugar at the end, and a warm slice eaten with a quenelle of softly whipped cream or a scoop of vanilla ice cream while the pastry crackles under the spoon. The contrast is everything: the brittle, dry, almost-paper-thin pastry against the tender, juicy spiced apples soft enough to give to a teaspoon. Coffee on the side; an afternoon in front of you.

Desserts 40 minutes Serves6
Ash Reshteh

Ash Reshteh

Dried beans (chickpeas + kidney beans + green lentils, OR the popular cheat of mixing all dried into one pot) soak overnight. Onion fries in oil; turmeric, salt and the soaked-and-drained beans go in with stock; simmers for 1 hour 15 minutes until tender. A heaping double handful of finely chopped fresh herbs (parsley, coriander, dill plus blanched spinach) goes in. Reshteh noodles (Persian flat egg noodles, sold at Iranian shops) add for the last 10 minutes. The bowl finishes with a sour-fermented kashk drizzle, dried-mint-and-garlic-in-oil sizzle, deep-fried golden onion, and a swirl of yogurt. Garnishes are not optional.

Persian 2 hours 10 minutes Serves6
Baklava with Rose, Cardamom and Pistachio

Baklava with Rose, Cardamom and Pistachio

Where classical Turkish baklava layers walnut or pistachio between many sheets of filo, this version rolls each sheet around a generous spoon of pistachio-and-cardamom filling, into cylinders that pack onto a tray. The bake is short and hot; the syrup is the heart of the dessert - sugar and water boiled to a single thread, stirred off the heat with a tablespoon of rose essence so the perfume stays bright. The hot baklava meets the cool syrup; the syrup soaks the cylinders to their cores. Cut into 5 cm pieces while warm, served on small plates with strong coffee.

Desserts 55 minutes Serves12
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