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A foogath is the Goan version of a coconut-stir-fry vegetable: a temper of mustard seeds, dried red chilli, urad dal and curry leaves in coconut oil, sliced onion and garlic cooked briefly, then the vegetable tossed in over high heat. Fresh grated coconut is folded through at the end. The cabbage keeps a slight crunch and gets a nutty-sweet finish.
Cabbage is finely shredded into ribbons. A temper of mustard seeds, urad dal, dried red chilli and curry leaves is bloomed in coconut oil, the shredded cabbage tossed in over high heat, and a coconut paste of fresh coconut, green chilli, garlic and cumin folded through. The dish stays dry and the cabbage retains a slight crunch.
Whole black urad lentils and a small handful of red kidney beans are soaked overnight, then pressure-cooked or simmered until completely tender. A tomato-and-spice masala is built separately with onion, garlic, ginger and a careful hand with the spices. The lentils are folded into the masala and simmered, low and slow, for two hours, while butter and cream are stirred through in the final stage. The lentils break down into a glossy, almost-velvet finish.
French beans are trimmed and chopped into 1 cm pieces. A temper of mustard seeds, urad dal, dried red chilli and curry leaves is bloomed in coconut oil, sliced onion is softened briefly, and the beans are tossed in with a splash of water to steam-cook them through. Fresh grated coconut is folded through at the end with a finishing pinch of green chilli.
Split yellow moong dal (or chana dal, or a mix) is rinsed and pressure-cooked or simmered with turmeric until completely soft. The dal is mashed lightly to a porridge consistency. A second pan fries ghee with whole cumin, garlic, sliced green chilli, dried red chilli and curry leaves until the garlic just turns golden. The hot tarka is poured over the dal with a dramatic sizzle; coriander and lemon finish.
Yellow split peas (chana dal) simmer with onion, turmeric and tomato until very soft. The lentils break down into a thick soup. Right at the end, a tempering of mustard seeds, curry leaves, dried red chillies, garlic and shallots is poured sizzling-hot over the surface. The aromatic oil seeps through; the dish transforms.
Ethiopia's red lentil stew, the vegan everyday main that turns up on every fasting-day table and most non-fasting ones too. You cook onions slowly in oil or niter kibbeh until they melt and turn jammy - this is the same long, patient onion cook that doro wat relies on. Berbere blooms in, tomato paste deepens, lentils go in with water and simmer until they're soft and the stew has thickened to a coating consistency. A squeeze of lemon at the end brightens the deep berbere-rich base. Bright orange from the spice, eaten by mopping with injera, made vegan with oil or richer with niter kibbeh. Either way, the dish that anchors an Ethiopian meal.
Lentils (brown or green, not red) simmer for 25 minutes until tender. Two batches of sliced onion fry in olive oil, the first batch goes very dark mahogany (almost burnt at edges) for the flavour base; the second batch is fried separately and reserved as a crispy topping. Rinsed basmati rice cooks absorption-style with the lentils, the first batch of onion, cumin, allspice and stock for 20 minutes. The crispy onion scatters on top at the table.
Brown lentils boil until almost tender; long-grain rice and water join them along with cumin and a touch of cinnamon. While they finish cooking, sliced onions fry slow in olive oil until they're deep brown and crisp. The crisp onions and their dark oil go on top.