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A foogath is the Goan version of a coconut-stir-fry vegetable: a temper of mustard seeds, dried red chilli, urad dal and curry leaves in coconut oil, sliced onion and garlic cooked briefly, then the vegetable tossed in over high heat. Fresh grated coconut is folded through at the end. The cabbage keeps a slight crunch and gets a nutty-sweet finish.
Cabbage is finely shredded into ribbons. A temper of mustard seeds, urad dal, dried red chilli and curry leaves is bloomed in coconut oil, the shredded cabbage tossed in over high heat, and a coconut paste of fresh coconut, green chilli, garlic and cumin folded through. The dish stays dry and the cabbage retains a slight crunch.
Fresh coconut is ground with green chilli, ginger, roasted gram and a small splash of water into a smooth paste. The chutney is finished with a tempering of mustard seeds, dried red chilli, curry leaves and asafoetida in hot oil, poured over the white chutney for a striking visual and aromatic contrast.
Plain steamed rice (often last night's leftovers) is the base. A hot temper of mustard seeds, urad dal, chana dal, cashews, dried red chilli and curry leaves is bloomed in coconut oil, then fresh grated coconut is folded in and warmed through. The rice is tossed through everything off the heat, so the grains stay separate and pick up flavour rather than soften.
French beans are trimmed and chopped into 1 cm pieces. A temper of mustard seeds, urad dal, dried red chilli and curry leaves is bloomed in coconut oil, sliced onion is softened briefly, and the beans are tossed in with a splash of water to steam-cook them through. Fresh grated coconut is folded through at the end with a finishing pinch of green chilli.
Split yellow moong dal (or chana dal, or a mix) is rinsed and pressure-cooked or simmered with turmeric until completely soft. The dal is mashed lightly to a porridge consistency. A second pan fries ghee with whole cumin, garlic, sliced green chilli, dried red chilli and curry leaves until the garlic just turns golden. The hot tarka is poured over the dal with a dramatic sizzle; coriander and lemon finish.
A temper of mustard seeds, chana dal, urad dal, peanuts, dried red chilli and curry leaves is bloomed in sesame oil. Turmeric is stirred in for colour. Cooked, cooled rice is tossed through off the heat, then lemon juice is added at the end so the heat doesn't dull the acidity. Bright lunchbox classic; the dish should taste fresh and tart, not muddled.
Yellow split peas (chana dal) simmer with onion, turmeric and tomato until very soft. The lentils break down into a thick soup. Right at the end, a tempering of mustard seeds, curry leaves, dried red chillies, garlic and shallots is poured sizzling-hot over the surface. The aromatic oil seeps through; the dish transforms.
Sambar powder is unique: it blends spices with roasted legumes (urad dhal, channa dhal, mung dhal) for both flavor and thickening properties. This multi-purpose powder flavors soups, stews, and vegetable curries while the ground legumes provide body and nutrition. The result is distinctly different from North Indian curry powders, slightly earthy, with deep spice notes and thickening power.
A spiced tamarind paste is built with a dry-roast of coriander, cumin, fenugreek, chana dal and dried red chilli ground to a powder, then tamarind extract is simmered with the powder, turmeric, jaggery and salt until thick. A temper of peanuts, mustard seeds and curry leaves is bloomed in sesame oil and folded through cooked rice with the tamarind paste, the dish left to rest so the flavour settles. Famously gets better overnight.
Split yellow moong dal (or toor dal) cooks with turmeric, salt and water for 25 minutes until soft and breaking down. A small whisk smooths it into a creamy dal. Just before serving, ghee heats until shimmering; cumin seeds, garlic, dried chilli and asafoetida sizzle for 30 seconds; the whole sputtering mix is poured straight onto the dal. Fresh coriander, a wedge of lemon.