In season

May produce

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Asun (Spicy Smoky Goat Meat)

Asun (Spicy Smoky Goat Meat)

Goat meat (bone-in pieces, ideally) simmers in water with onion, garlic, bay, salt and bouillon till tender (45 min). Lifts out; pats dry; grills over high heat (or under a hot grill / on a griddle pan) till charred (8-10 min). Pepper base: scotch bonnet, red pepper, onion, garlic blitz to paste; sautés in oil with curry powder, thyme, ginger till fragrant. Charred meat tosses in the pepper paste; cooks for 5 minutes more; tops with fresh chopped onion. Eats hot.

Snacks 1 hour 35 minutes Serves4
Chicken Satay with Peanut Sauce

Chicken Satay with Peanut Sauce

I’m a big fan of Thai chicken satay with peanut sauce. Although it isn’t necessary, it is best to marinate the chicken for at least a day. You could get away with 30 minutes but a longer marinating time will get you much tastier results. As the chicken soaks up that incredible marinade, it not only tenderizes it but makes it much juicier when cooked. This recipe could be used with thinly sliced pork or beef, both are also popular at Thai restaurants and takeaways. Pork is the meat of choice in Thailand but chicken is the most popular in the UK. I also like to serve this dish with cucumber and chilli relish.

Starters 35 minutes Serves6
Green Curry BBQ Aubergine

Green Curry BBQ Aubergine

This is a BBQ side built on the flavour profile of Thai green curry rather than a Thai curry itself. The marinade is essentially a small batch of green curry sauce reduced down until thick and clinging, then cooled and rubbed into wedges of aubergine that sit in it overnight. By morning the cut surfaces have drunk in coconut, paste, fish sauce, palm sugar, lime leaf and basil; by the time they hit the grill, the flesh has half-pickled and the surface is coated in a paste that caramelises beautifully over hot coals. The grill does the rest. Direct high heat blackens the marinade into sticky-black patches while the inside steams under its own glaze and softens to spoon-tender. Difficulty is low. The only patience involved is overnight in the fridge. Serve as a centrepiece on a BBQ platter alongside grilled meats, or as a vegetarian main with sticky rice, a wedge of lime and a scatter of Thai basil. It is rich, smoky, gently sweet, salty and herbaceous all at once, with the unmistakable green-curry note running through every bite.

Sides 37 minutes Serves4
Octopus Curry (Cari Ourite)

Octopus Curry (Cari Ourite)

Cari ourite is the dish that turns up at every Mauritian fisherman's Sunday lunch, and at every Creole restaurant on the south coast. The technique is to braise octopus low and slow in a tomato-and-onion masala that leans on fresh thyme and a finishing pinch of garam masala instead of the heavier dried-spice masalas you find in cari boeuf or cari poulet. Octopus has a sweet, slightly mineral flavour that needs space, so the seasoning is restrained: thyme for aroma, tomato for body, ginger and garlic for the base, mild curry powder for depth, garam masala right at the end for top-note warmth. The tentacles cook for around 45 minutes (small octopus) to an hour (larger). The biggest variable is the octopus itself; small frozen octopus, sold cleaned at most fishmongers and many supermarkets, is reliable and the freezing actually helps tenderise the flesh. Difficulty is moderate; the cook is mostly passive once the masala is built. Serve with plain steamed rice and a satini cotomili (coriander chutney) or a spoon of pickled chilli. A simple green salad with vinaigrette on the side keeps it honest.

Mauritian 1 hour 25 minutes Serves4