In season

May produce

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Kabsa

Kabsa

Saudi Arabia's national dish, the one platter you'll meet at almost every gathering from family lunch through wedding banquet. You brown chicken pieces or lamb shoulder hard in a heavy pot, then build a base of onion, garlic and ginger softened in the same fat, with tomato and a spoonful of baharat (or a dedicated kabsa spice mix) blooming until the kitchen fills with cardamom and cinnamon. The protein simmers in tomato and stock until it's tender and pulling away from the bone, then long-grain rice goes in to cook absorption-style in the same liquid, drinking up every layer of flavour the broth carries. You finish with almonds toasted in butter, raisins plumped briefly, and a fresh salsa of tomato, onion, chilli and parsley spooned on the side to cut the richness. Eaten communally from the centre platter, with hands or a long spoon.

Arabian 1 hour 35 minutes Serves6
Kabuli Pulao

Kabuli Pulao

Kabuli pulao is Afghanistan's national dish, the centrepiece of every wedding, Eid and important Friday lunch: a layered pilaf of long-grain rice, slow-braised lamb, sweet carrot strands and butter-plumped raisins, all steam-finished together in one pot. You brown lamb shoulder hard, then braise it in spiced stock until the meat slips off the bone (that stock becomes the rice's cooking liquid). Carrots cut into matchsticks fry slowly in butter and sugar until they are golden and glassy. Raisins plump in butter. The rice parboils, then layers in the pot: lamb at the bottom, rice piled on top in a dome, drizzles of stock through the dome, lid clamped on tight. Twenty-five minutes of steam-cook and the rice emerges grain-separate and fragrant, ready to mound onto a platter with the carrots and raisins scattered across the top.

Afghanistan 2 hours 30 minutes Serves6
Madghoot

Madghoot

The fast Saudi cousin of mandi, made when you want kabsa-deep flavour but the day doesn't have three hours in it for the meat to cook. You give bone-in lamb a quick wet marinade of crushed tomato, baharat, dried lime, garlic and yogurt (the yogurt tenderises while the spice mix works in), then it goes into a pressure cooker with onion and stock for thirty minutes under pressure, which is what a slow oven would otherwise do in three hours. The cooking liquid gets strained out (it is the dish's stock), basmati cooks absorption-style in it for twelve to fifteen minutes, and the lamb returns on top to rest while the rice steams through. Served straight from the pot with sahawiq (the chilli-coriander relish that shows up on every Khaleeji table) and salata on the side. Weeknight kabsa, basically.

Arabian 2 hours 10 minutes Serves4
Mandi

Mandi

Lamb shoulder is rubbed with a Yemeni spice mix (hawaij), browned, then steam-roasted at low heat for two hours until it shreds. The cooking juices are strained off; long-grain rice cooks in them with saffron, raisins and a bay-and-cardamom aromatic mix. The cooked lamb is laid on top of the rice; a piece of glowing charcoal is placed in a small heatproof bowl on top of the rice, drizzled with oil, and the whole thing is covered tight for 5 minutes to absorb the smoke. Lift, serve.

Yemen 7 hours 10 minutes Serves6
Mathloutha

Mathloutha

The Saudi gathering platter built for the night when one cut of meat isn't enough. Three proteins share the same pot: lamb shoulder and beef chunks go in first with a kabsa-spiced tomato base for ninety minutes of slow simmer until they're meltingly tender, then chicken pieces drop in for the last thirty-five minutes (their cook time is shorter, so they go in later). The strained meat broth, deeply spiced from everything that has braised in it, becomes the cooking liquid for basmati scented with saffron and dried lime. At the end you arrange all three meats on top of the rice in the same platter and bring the whole thing to the centre of the table. The kind of dish you make for a wedding lunch, an Eid gathering, or the night the extended family arrives unannounced.

Arabian 3 hours Serves8
Shish Barak

Shish Barak

A simple wheat-flour-and-water dough rests for 30 minutes. The filling: onion fries; lamb mince browns with baharat, allspice, cinnamon, salt and pepper; cooled. The dough rolls thin, cuts into 5 cm rounds; a small spoon of filling sits on each; folded in half to make a half-moon; the corners pinched together over the back to form a tiny tortellini. Lined up on a tray; baked for 12 minutes at 200°C to firm and lightly colour. A warm yogurt sauce simmers gently, thickened with cornstarch (or whisked egg white) so it doesn't split. The baked dumplings drop in and warm 5 minutes. Garlic-and-mint butter sizzles on top.

Palestinian 1 hour 30 minutes Serves4