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Bifana

Bifana

Bifanas are Portugal's national lunch sandwich, sold at every counter from Lisbon to Porto. Slices of pork loin (paper-thin, across the grain) marinate for a couple of hours in white wine, garlic, paprika, bay and black pepper, then go into a screaming-hot pan with olive oil and a knob of butter for sixty seconds a side. The marinade reduces in the pan to a salty, winey sauce, which gets ladled over a halved papo-seco roll along with the pork. Add mustard, or a squirt of piri-piri, and you've nailed it. Eaten standing at the counter with a glass of Sagres beer, or in Porto with a Super Bock.

Portuguese 2 hours 30 minutes Serves4
Cataplana de Marisco

Cataplana de Marisco

A cataplana is a hinged copper clamshell pan, and the seafood stew named after it is one of those dishes where the cookware does the work. You build a base of onions, peppers, sliced chouriço, smoked paprika, tomato and white wine in the bottom of the cataplana, then layer clams, mussels, prawns and chunks of firm white fish on top, clamp the lid shut, and steam it all for less than ten minutes. The lid lifts at the table to release a cloud of paprika-and-wine-scented steam, which is the entire point of the dish. If you do not have a cataplana, any wide pan with a tight lid does the same job. Coriander and lemon at the end, crusty bread for the broth, and vinho verde for everything else.

Portuguese 55 minutes Serves4
Chorrillana

Chorrillana

The Valparaíso bar classic, the giant shareable platter that lands in the middle of the table at every port-city watering hole. You deep-fry thick-cut chips until they're crisp and gold, sear thinly-sliced sirloin (lomo) hot in a wide pan, soften and lightly char onion in the same fat, and fry eggs sunny-side up. Everything piles into a single wide platter: chips on the bottom, steak and onion on top, eggs cracked over the lot so the yolks can run down. Some versions add slices of chorizo. Eaten communally with forks reaching from every side and a cold beer doing the rounds.

Chilean 1 hour 5 minutes Serves4
Dirty Rice

Dirty Rice

A staple of the Cajun home kitchen, the rice dish that turns up alongside fried chicken at Sunday lunch or as a centre-of-the-plate dinner on a Wednesday. You blitz chicken livers to a fine paste (so they melt into the rice rather than appearing as recognisable pieces - the texture is the point), brown minced beef or pork hard for colour, then add the Cajun trinity of onion, celery and bell pepper to soften in the rendered fat. Cajun spice blooms in the heat, rice toasts in the same pan, stock pours in, and everything simmers covered until the rice is tender and has drunk up the cooking liquid. The result is grey-brown rice studded with meat and trinity. The "dirty" name describes the look (livers staining the grains) not the cleanliness. Eaten with hot sauce on the table and a wedge of cornbread on the side.

Cajun 1 hour 5 minutes Serves6
Eggs Benedict

Eggs Benedict

The Sunday brunch icon, and the dish people learn hollandaise for. You build the sauce first, whisking egg yolks with water and lemon over a bain-marie until they ribbon, then drizzling in warm clarified butter while you whisk steady and even until the bowl holds something glossy and thick. The hollandaise will wait for you in a warm spot while you poach the eggs - vinegar in barely-simmering water, a gentle whirlpool, three minutes for a runny yolk - and toast the muffins, and warm the ham. Then everything stacks at speed: muffin, ham, egg, hollandaise spooned generously over, a scatter of chives. You eat immediately, because every component is at its best within a minute of plating and falls off a cliff after five. Looks fancy on a tablecloth; rewards twenty focused minutes of work.

American 30 minutes Serves4
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