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May produce

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Chana Chaat

Chana Chaat

Cooked chickpeas (tinned for speed, OR overnight-soaked and home-cooked for the best texture) toss with diced red onion, finely chopped tomato, small-diced boiled potato and chopped fresh coriander. The dressing: lemon juice, chaat masala (a salty-sour spice mix sold at Pakistani shops), roasted ground cumin, Kashmiri chilli powder and a pinch of salt. Hot chilli sauce and tamarind chutney drizzle on; the chaat tosses; crushed papri tops; eat immediately.

Sides 20 minutes Serves4
Foul Saudi

Foul Saudi

The Saudi take on foul medames, somewhere between the Egyptian original and the Yemeni daal-like versions. You soak dried fava beans overnight, then simmer them with a chickpea or two and a garlic clove for six hours low and slow (or pressure-cook for forty-five minutes if you don't have the day) until they're so soft they fall apart at a glance. Once drained, the beans go back into a hot pan with olive oil and garlic, cumin and a hit of chilli; you crush them roughly with a fork (chunky, not smooth) and finish with lemon and a handful of chopped parsley. Eaten warm for breakfast across the Gulf, scooped with flatbread, with a side of pickles or salata hara, and a glass of mint tea.

Sides 6 hours 55 minutes Serves4
Msabaha

Msabaha

Dried chickpeas soak overnight with a pinch of bicarbonate of soda. The next morning, they simmer in fresh water with garlic, cumin and bay until very soft (about 1 hour, longer if the chickpeas are old). Some chickpeas (about a third) blitz with garlic, lemon juice, tahini and ice water into a smooth purée. The remaining whole chickpeas keep warm in their cooking liquid. To plate: smooth purée on the bottom of the bowl, hot whole chickpeas piled in the centre, more tahini-lemon-garlic sauce poured over, drizzle of olive oil, sprinkle of cumin, scatter of parsley. Eaten with hot bread.

Sides 1 hour 45 minutes Serves4
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