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Rice flour, turmeric, coconut milk and water make a thin yellow batter. Filling vegetables, mushrooms, sliced onion, tofu, are sautéed in a hot pan; the batter is poured over to form a thin pancake; beansprouts pile in last; the lot is folded in half and slides out crisp. Pieces are wrapped in lettuce with herbs and dipped in nuoc cham.
A mix of raw and lightly-blanched vegetables; firm tofu pan-fried; hard-boiled eggs halved. The peanut sauce is built fresh from roasted peanuts blended with garlic, chilli, kecap manis, tamarind, lime and water. Pour over at the table; toss; eat.
Vermicelli noodles cook briefly and get tossed with sesame oil to stop sticking. Tofu pan-fries until golden. Rice paper rounds soak in warm water until pliable; everything stacks on each round and rolls tightly. The peanut sauce blends in seconds.
Silken tofu poaches briefly in salted water (firms it up so it doesn't break). Dried shiitake mushrooms rehydrate and chop fine. Doubanjiang fries in oil until the oil reddens; mushrooms, garlic, ginger and chilli flakes follow. Stock loosens; tofu joins gently; cornflour slurry thickens. Sichuan peppercorn dust at the table.
A Cambodian banana flower salad, the kind of bright herby starter that opens a Khmer meal. You slice banana flower thin and submerge it immediately in lemon water to stop the browning (banana flower oxidises within seconds of cutting, going from pale ivory to brown). Tofu cubes (or shredded chicken in the non-vegetarian version) join for substance. Peanuts toast in a dry pan; shallots fry crisp in oil. The dressing is lime, palm sugar, soy and chilli pounded together in a mortar, and everything tosses with fresh herbs at the last minute - mint, coriander, Thai basil, whatever is around. Eaten as a starter or alongside grilled meat, the bitter floral note of the banana flower balanced by the salty-sweet dressing and the crunch of peanuts.
A spice paste of shallots, garlic, candlenuts (or cashews), turmeric and chilli is fried in oil until fragrant. Lemongrass, kaffir lime leaves and galangal infuse the coconut milk. Vegetables go in by cooking time, firmer first, leafier last. Tofu joins; everything simmers gently. The broth should be thin, the vegetables tender but not collapsed.
A spice paste of shallots, garlic, ginger, lemongrass and turmeric is fried in oil. Coconut milk and water simmer with the paste; pumpkin or squash goes in first to soften, beans and aubergine follow, and tofu joins last. The broth thickens lightly; salt and a squeeze of lime finish.
Firm tofu blocks halve crossways into triangles. A small slit cuts into each triangle to make a pocket. Vegetable filling stir-fries quickly with shallot, garlic, soy sauce and a pinch of sugar; cools. Pockets stuff with filling. Stuffed tofu dips into a thin rice-flour batter; fries in moderately hot oil 3-4 minutes till crisp gold all over. Eats hot with whole fresh chillies on the side and a saucer of sweet-soy dip.
A spice paste of green chillies and aromatics blends fresh (or starts from a good Thai paste with fresh additions). Coconut cream from the top of the can is cracked in the wok until oil splits out; paste fries; coconut milk loosens; vegetables, Thai aubergine, pea aubergine, bamboo shoots, broccoli, baby corn, go in by cook time. Tofu joins; the curry simmers briefly. Soy sauce (instead of fish sauce), palm sugar, lime leaves, Thai basil to finish.
Mushroom (dried shiitake) and kombu (kelp) infuse hot water for the broth base. Garlic-and-ginger oil fries; miso paste, soy and mirin make the tare. Noodles cook fresh; everything assembles in deep bowls with toppings stacked artfully.