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Chinese Pickled Cucumber

Chinese Pickled Cucumber

Cucumbers are cut into spears (or smashed-and-torn for a rougher texture), salted heavily in a colander 30 minutes to weep, then patted dry. A brine of rice vinegar, sugar, light soy, water, sliced ginger, Sichuan peppercorns and dried red chillies brings to a gentle simmer just to dissolve the sugar; cools to room temperature. The drained cucumber goes into a jar; the cooled brine pours over to submerge; refrigerated for 1 hour minimum (overnight ideal). Eats cold straight from the jar.

Sides 15 minutes Serves6
Goma-Ae

Goma-Ae

Spinach (or green beans, asparagus, kale) blanches briefly in salted boiling water; refreshes in cold water; squeezes hard to remove all excess water; cuts into 4 cm pieces. Sesame seeds toast in a dry pan until fragrant and slightly darker. The toasted seeds grind in a suribachi (Japanese mortar) or a small food processor to a coarse paste, not to butter consistency; some texture is wanted. The paste mixes with soy sauce, sugar, mirin and a teaspoon of sake (optional) into a thick dressing. The blanched, squeezed vegetable tosses with the dressing; rests briefly to integrate; served at room temperature.

Sides 15 minutes Serves4
Gumbo z'Herbes

Gumbo z'Herbes

The "gumbo of herbs", the green Lenten gumbo traditionally made by Cajun and Creole families during the fasting weeks before Easter, when meat was off the table but the bowl still had to be filled. You build a dark roux first, flour cooked in oil to peanut-butter brown over a long patient stir. The Cajun trinity of onion, celery and bell pepper goes in to soften, then a mountain of finely chopped greens (collards, mustard greens, turnip tops, spinach, chard - the more varieties the better) piles into the pot with stock. Forty-five minutes of slow simmer takes the greens to meltingly soft and turns the broth into a deep nourishing green-brown. Hot sauce, filé powder and a scoop of white rice finish each bowl. Lenten or not, the dish stands on its own as one of Louisiana's quieter masterpieces.

Cajun 1 hour 40 minutes Serves6
Kinpira Gobo

Kinpira Gobo

Burdock root (gobo, long thin brown root sold at Japanese / Korean / well-stocked Asian shops; if unavailable, substitute with parsnip + an extra dash of dashi for the earthy depth) is scrubbed clean, julienned into matchsticks, then soaked briefly in vinegared water to prevent oxidation. Carrots julienne to similar matchsticks. Sesame oil heats; dried red chilli flakes (or one small chilli sliced) infuses 30 seconds; the drained gobo goes in and stir-fries for 3 minutes; carrot joins; everything tosses 2 more minutes. A sauce of soy, mirin, sugar and a splash of sake pours in; reduces for 4-5 minutes until the liquid is gone and the vegetables are glazed. Finished with sesame seeds and a drizzle of sesame oil.

Sides 37 minutes Serves4
Nhom Trav

Nhom Trav

A Cambodian banana flower salad, the kind of bright herby starter that opens a Khmer meal. You slice banana flower thin and submerge it immediately in lemon water to stop the browning (banana flower oxidises within seconds of cutting, going from pale ivory to brown). Tofu cubes (or shredded chicken in the non-vegetarian version) join for substance. Peanuts toast in a dry pan; shallots fry crisp in oil. The dressing is lime, palm sugar, soy and chilli pounded together in a mortar, and everything tosses with fresh herbs at the last minute - mint, coriander, Thai basil, whatever is around. Eaten as a starter or alongside grilled meat, the bitter floral note of the banana flower balanced by the salty-sweet dressing and the crunch of peanuts.

Cambodian 30 minutes Serves4
Red Beans and Rice

Red Beans and Rice

The Monday dinner of New Orleans, the dish traditionally cooked on washing day because it could simmer unattended on the back of the stove while the laundry got done. You soften the Cajun trinity of onion, celery and bell pepper in oil, then bloom smoked paprika and Cajun seasoning in the heat. Soaked red kidney beans go in with stock, bay and a generous handful of thyme, and the pot simmers slowly until the beans are tender. In the last thirty minutes, you partially mash some of the beans against the side of the pot. That mash is what thickens the broth into a gravy and gives the dish its defining velvet texture. A splash of vinegar and a hit of hot sauce at the finish. Ladled over white rice with a smoky andouille link on the side, the way Louis Armstrong used to sign his letters: "Red beans and ricely yours".

Cajun 2 hours Serves4-6
Saffron Vinaigrette

Saffron Vinaigrette

Saffron vinaigrette represents refinement and luxury, both in ingredient cost and in application. Saffron's distinctive golden color and complex floral-earthy flavor contribute to a dressing of considerable sophistication. The infusion of saffron in warm vinegar extracts maximum flavor while creating a visually stunning golden liquid. Combined with two different oils (groundnut for body, sesame for aromatics) and brightened with soy sauce, this dressing is designed specifically for elegant presentations where appearance and subtle flavor matter greatly.

Vinaigrettes 5 minutes Serves150
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