Phở Chay
Vietnamese vegetarian pho: a fragrant broth of charred onion, ginger, star anise, cinnamon and clove built on mushroom and seaweed for depth, with rice noodles, tofu and a heaped bowl of fresh herbs at the table. The broth is the dish - clear, aromatic, just-savoury.
Overview
Onion and ginger char black on a flame to give the broth its signature smoky depth. They go into water with toasted spices, dried mushrooms, kombu (kelp) and a few aromatics, simmering for an hour to extract flavour. The broth strains clear; tofu poaches in it briefly. Rice noodles cook separately; everything assembles in bowls with a pile of fresh herbs and chillies.
Ingredients
Broth
- 2 onions (halved, skin on)
- 8 cm fresh ginger (split lengthwise)
- 4 star anise
- 1 cinnamon stick
- 5 cloves
- 1 tablespoon coriander seeds
- 1 tablespoon black peppercorns
- 25 g dried shiitake mushrooms
- 1 piece kombu (about 10 x 5 cm)
- 250 g daikon (peeled, roughly chopped, optional but classic)
- 2 carrots (large, chopped)
- 2 ½ litres water
- 60 ml light soy sauce
- 2 teaspoons salt (or to taste)
- 1 tablespoon brown sugar
To assemble
- 400 g flat rice noodles (banh pho)
- 300 g firm tofu (cubed)
To serve
- A large handful Thai basil leaves
- A large handful coriander
- A large handful mint
- 200 g beansprouts
- 2 limes (cut into wedges)
- 2 bird's-eye chillies (sliced)
- Hoisin sauce
- Sriracha (or other chilli sauce)
Method
Stage 1 - Char the alliums
- Set the onions cut-side down directly on a gas flame (or under a hot grill); char until blackened (5-6 minutes per side).
- Char the ginger pieces the same way until streaked black.
- This is non-negotiable for proper pho flavour.
Stage 2 - Toast the spices
- Toast the star anise, cinnamon, cloves, coriander seeds and peppercorns in a dry pan over medium heat 2-3 minutes until fragrant.
- Tip into a square of muslin and tie shut (or use a tea infuser/bag).
Stage 3 - Simmer the broth
- Combine the charred onion and ginger, spice bag, mushrooms, kombu, daikon, carrots and water in a large pot.
- Bring to a boil; reduce to a steady simmer.
- Cook 1 hour uncovered. The liquid will reduce slightly and turn deep golden.
Stage 4 - Strain and season
- Strain through a fine sieve into a clean pot, pressing the solids gently.
- Discard the solids (or save the rehydrated mushrooms for a stir-fry).
- Stir in the soy sauce, salt and sugar; taste and adjust - should be savoury, lightly sweet, deeply aromatic.
- Add the tofu; simmer 5 minutes to warm through.
Stage 5 - Noodles
- Cook the rice noodles per packet (usually 4-5 minutes in boiling water).
- Drain and divide between four wide bowls.
Stage 6 - Serve
- Lift tofu pieces from the broth and divide between the bowls.
- Ladle hot broth over.
- Bring the herbs, beansprouts, lime wedges and chillies to the table.
- Each diner adds what they want - torn basil, mint and coriander; a squeeze of lime; chillies; a swirl of hoisin and sriracha.
Notes
- Charring is the soul of pho: Smoky-sweet onion and ginger are what distinguish pho from generic noodle soup. Open the windows.
- Vegan: The broth is naturally vegan; sub the soy sauce as needed and check that your hoisin doesn't contain anchovies (some brands do).
- Make ahead: The broth keeps 5 days refrigerated and freezes 3 months. Texture is best when made fresh, but the broth itself only improves overnight.
Storage
- Broth keeps 5 days refrigerated, freezes 3 months. Cooked noodles don't keep well; cook fresh.
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