
Risotto Alla Milanese
Saffron risotto: rice toasted in butter, simmered slowly with stock and saffron, finished with butter and parmesan. The classic accompaniment to osso buco; equally good as a meal on its own. The yellow comes from saffron, not turmeric.
Overview
Carnaroli or arborio rice toasts briefly in butter and oil with shallot, gets a splash of white wine to evaporate, then takes ladlefuls of warm saffron-infused stock until al dente. Off the heat, beaten with cold butter and parmesan to mantecare (emulsify) into a glossy, just-flowing risotto.
Ingredients
- 1 large pinch saffron threads (about ½ g)
- 1 litre chicken (or vegetable stock)
- 50 g unsalted butter (split)
- 1 tablespoon olive oil
- 1 shallot (small, very finely chopped)
- 300 g carnaroli (or arborio rice)
- 100 ml dry white wine
- 60 g parmesan cheese (finely grated)
- salt
- pepper
Method
Stage 1 - Bloom the saffron
- Crumble the saffron into 2 tablespoons of warm stock; let steep 5 minutes (the colour and flavour are released this way, not by direct cooking).
- Keep the rest of the stock at a low simmer in a separate pan.
Stage 2 - Toast the rice
- Heat half the butter and the oil in a heavy wide pan over medium heat.
- Cook the shallot for 3-4 minutes until softened but not coloured.
- Add the rice; stir for 1-2 minutes until each grain is glossy and the edges turn translucent (the "tostatura").
Stage 3 - Deglaze
- Pour in the white wine; stir until completely evaporated.
Stage 4 - Simmer with stock
- Add a ladleful of warm stock; stir until absorbed.
- Continue adding stock a ladleful at a time, stirring constantly, for about 18 minutes total.
- Halfway through, stir in the saffron-infused stock (the rice turns golden).
- Taste at 16 minutes; the rice should be al dente - tender but with a faint chalky core.
Stage 5 - Mantecare
- Take the pan OFF the heat.
- Beat in the remaining butter (cold, in cubes) and the parmesan vigorously with a wooden spoon for 30-45 seconds.
- The risotto should fall slowly off the spoon (all'onda - "in waves").
- Taste; season with salt and white pepper.
Stage 6 - Serve
- Spoon onto warm flat plates and tap the plate base to spread the risotto into a thin layer.
- Eat immediately; risotto stiffens within minutes.
Notes
- Bloom the saffron: Direct in the rice gives a duller colour. The pre-soak releases full pigment.
- Stock must be warm: Cold stock drops the cooking temperature; the rice releases starch unevenly.
- All'onda or gluey: A risotto that holds its shape on the plate is overcooked. It should ripple gently; tap the plate to spread.
Storage
- Doesn't keep well. Leftovers can be fried into arancini the next day; risotto reheated whole becomes mush.
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