Amok Trey
Cambodia's national dish: fish steamed in a banana-leaf cup with kroeung (the lemongrass-galangal-turmeric paste that defines Khmer cooking), coconut cream and noni leaves. The fish stays soft; the custard thickens around it; the leaves perfume everything. Served from the banana-leaf parcels with rice.
Overview
Cambodia's national dish, the centrepiece of any Khmer feast and the proper-occasion food across the country. You start by pounding kroeung fresh in a mortar (the paste of lemongrass, galangal, turmeric, garlic, shallots, kaffir lime zest and coriander root that defines Khmer cooking, and that no shop-bought paste comes close to matching). The kroeung fries briefly to bloom its aromatics, coconut cream and stock loosen it, and eggs whisk in to set the eventual custard. Chunks of firm white fish fold through with chopped greens (traditionally noni leaves, with spinach or chard standing in), and the whole mix spoons into banana-leaf cups (or small ramekins). Twenty minutes in a steamer turns the custard just-set around the soft fish, and the banana leaves perfume everything. Served from the parcels with steamed rice and a wedge of lime.
Ingredients
Kroeung (curry paste)
- 3 stalks lemongrass (white parts, sliced thin)
- 4 cm galangal (sliced)
- 3 cm fresh turmeric (or 1 ½ teaspoons ground)
- 6 garlic cloves
- 4 shallots
- 2 kaffir limes (or 4 lime leaves, central stems out, finely chopped, zest)
- 1 small bunch coriander roots (cleaned)
- 1 long red chilli
- 1 teaspoon shrimp paste (skip for vegetarian; 1 teaspoon brown miso instead)
Custard
- 600 g white fish fillet (cod, basa, sea bass; cut into 3 cm chunks)
- 250 ml thick coconut cream
- 100 ml fish stock (or water)
- 2 eggs (large)
- 2 tablespoons fish sauce (or vegetarian fish sauce / soy)
- 1 tablespoon palm sugar
- 1 teaspoon salt
- 1 small handful Thai basil (chopped)
- 100 g spinach (or noni leaves, shredded)
To assemble
- 4 banana leaves (cut into 18 cm squares; or use 4 ramekins)
- Hot cooked jasmine rice (to serve)
Topping
- 4 tablespoons coconut cream (extra)
- 1 long red chilli (sliced thin)
- A few kaffir lime leaves (julienned)
Method
Stage 1 - Kroeung
- Pound or blend everything in the kroeung list to a smooth paste, scraping down. A high-speed blender or small food processor with a tablespoon of water works fine.
Stage 2 - Banana-leaf cups (optional)
- Soften banana leaves over a flame for 5 seconds - they turn glossy and pliable.
- Fold each square into a small open box: bring two opposite corners up and pin together; do the same with the other two. Use cocktail sticks. (Skip and use ramekins if simpler.)
Stage 3 - Custard base
- Heat 1 tablespoon vegetable oil in a wok over medium heat.
- Add the kroeung; fry 4-5 minutes until darker and aromatic.
- Pour in the coconut cream and stock; whisk; bring to a simmer.
- Whisk the eggs lightly; pour into the wok off the heat, whisking - they shouldn't curdle but they're not meant to stay liquid either.
- Stir in the fish sauce, palm sugar, salt.
Stage 4 - Fold
- Stir in the spinach (or noni) and the fish chunks gently, just to coat.
Stage 5 - Steam
- Spoon the mixture into the banana-leaf cups or ramekins.
- Set in a steamer over boiling water; cover.
- Steam 18-20 minutes until the custard is set and the fish is cooked through (no pink in the centre).
Stage 6 - Finish
- Drizzle each cup with a teaspoon of extra coconut cream.
- Top with sliced chilli and shredded lime leaves.
- Serve hot with jasmine rice.
Notes
- Kroeung is the dish: The paste is unique to Khmer cooking - different from Thai green or red curry pastes. The galangal-lemongrass-turmeric balance makes it.
- Fish that holds together: Firm white fish - cod, basa, sea bass, halibut - chunks of 3 cm hold up to steaming. Tilapia and barramundi are traditional.
- Banana leaves vs ramekins: Banana leaves give a subtle, tea-like aroma; ramekins are cleaner and easier. Both are valid.
Storage
- Best fresh; the custard separates on reheat. Eat the day it's made.
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