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A handful of vegetables (drumstick, ash gourd, carrot, runner beans, green plantain) are cut into uniform 5 cm batons and cooked separately to keep their textures. Coconut is ground with cumin, green chilli and shallot into a paste, which is added to the cooked vegetables with thinned yogurt. The dish is warmed gently (never simmered) so the yogurt doesn't split, and finished with raw coconut oil and curry leaves.
Borani banjan is an Afghan aubergine dish that does the same work as a moussaka or a melitzanosalata: pan-fried aubergine slices, a quick spiced tomato sauce, and a generous lid of garlic-and-mint yogurt that bridges all the warm and cold elements. The aubergine slices salt and sweat for half an hour first (which keeps them from drinking too much oil) before they fry hard in olive oil until golden and silky. Onion and tomato cook to a quick sauce with turmeric and a kick of chilli. The aubergine and sauce layer in a wide dish, then the chaka (yogurt whisked with garlic and salt) spoons over the whole thing while it is still warm. Scatter dried mint and drizzle olive oil to finish. Eat warm or at room temperature, with bread.
Chicken thighs cube small; marinate for 1 hour in yogurt, ginger-garlic paste, Kashmiri chilli, garam masala and cornflour. Deep-fried in two stages, first to cook through, second to crisp. While the chicken rests, a hot tempering of curry leaves, garlic, dried chillies, soy and vinegar sputters in a wok. The fried chicken tosses through the tempering for 30 seconds and goes straight to the plate.
Chilli and red onion raita is a cooling, yoghurt-based Indian condiment with toasted cumin, fresh coriander, and a gentle heat from green chilli. It provides a refreshing contrast to spicy curries and works equally well as a dip alongside poppadums.
Cabbage is shredded finely; carrots and onion are shredded or grated alongside. Salt is added to draw moisture out so the dressing isn't watered down later. Once squeezed dry, the vegetables are tossed with a mayo-mustard-vinegar dressing and refrigerated to settle.
Chicken poaches with onion, cardamom and bay 35 minutes; shredded off the bone. Chickpeas warm in the strained chicken stock. Pita pieces toast crisp under the grill. Yogurt-tahini-garlic sauce whisks together. Plated with pita on the bottom, chickpeas and chicken on top, yogurt sauce poured over, taqliya (butter, cumin and sliced garlic sizzled hot) drizzled on top, and pine nuts scattered.
Kadu bouranee is Afghanistan's sweet-and-savoury pumpkin dish: cubes of butternut squash or pumpkin braised slowly with onion and a touch of sugar until they collapse, plated under cold garlic-and-mint yogurt while the pumpkin is still warm. The temperature contrast is the whole pleasure of the dish. You brown the pumpkin briefly in oil with chopped onion, add sugar, tomato and a splash of stock, then cover and cook low until the pumpkin is completely yielding to a spoon (around forty minutes). Spoon into a wide dish, blanket with garlic yogurt (chaka) straight from the fridge, scatter dried mint over the top. Eat with naan, scooping pumpkin and yogurt up together.
Aubergines roast or pan-fry until soft and silky. The flesh mashes with caramelised onion and garlic into a soft paste. Kashk thins with a splash of water and folds through. The dish plates in a wide bowl, scored with the back of a spoon. Topped with crispy fried shallots, dried mint sizzled in oil, swirls of kashk, and chopped toasted walnut.*
Herbs are chopped finely, really finely, to a green confetti. Eggs are whisked with flour, baking powder, turmeric, salt and pepper. Walnut pieces and barberries are folded through. The mixture is poured into a buttered round baking dish or wide pan; baked at 180°C 35-40 minutes until set and deep green-gold on top. Cut into wedges or squares.
Big bunches of fresh herbs (parsley, coriander, dill, chives) chop very fine. Beaten eggs whisk with flour, baking powder, turmeric, salt and pepper. Herbs fold in. Optional: walnuts, barberries and a small amount of saffron. The mix pours into a hot oiled pan; cooks gently 5 minutes; flips (or finishes in the oven). Cut into squares; served at room temperature or chilled.
Dried sliced Persian shallots (sold at Iranian shops, looks like small papery brown discs) cover with cold water and rehydrate overnight (8-12 hours). Drained and patted dry; chopped fine. Strained thick yogurt whisks in a bowl; the chopped rehydrated shallots fold in; a pinch of salt and a small splash of cold water adjust the consistency. Rests for 1 hour for flavours to integrate. Served with a drizzle of olive oil.
Lentils (brown or green, not red) simmer for 25 minutes until tender. Two batches of sliced onion fry in olive oil, the first batch goes very dark mahogany (almost burnt at edges) for the flavour base; the second batch is fried separately and reserved as a crispy topping. Rinsed basmati rice cooks absorption-style with the lentils, the first batch of onion, cumin, allspice and stock for 20 minutes. The crispy onion scatters on top at the table.
Sambousak are Afghanistan's answer to the samosa: small triangular fried pastries with a spiced lamb filling, served as a starter or with afternoon tea alongside a green chutney. The filling is a quick fry-up of lamb mince with onion, leek, garlic, ginger, ground coriander, cumin, chilli and a hit of dried mint, then cooled completely before it goes into the wrappers. The dough work is the move: spring-roll pastry sheets get cut into long strips, then folded around a teaspoon of filling using the flag-fold (the strip wraps over the filling at a diagonal, then keeps folding triangle-over-triangle down its length until you have a closed triangle). Seal the seam with a flour-and-water paste, fry at 170°C for three minutes a side until amber. Eat warm with a mint-and-coriander chutney.
A simple yeasted bread dough rises for 1 hour; balls are divided and rolled into 9 cm rounds. A raw mince mixture of lamb, grated onion, tomato, pomegranate molasses, Aleppo pepper, allspice and pine nuts is spread thinly on top. Baked for 12-14 minutes at 230°C, high heat so the dough turns crisp before the meat dries out. Served warm with lemon wedges and yogurt.
These are grilled vegetables with spiced coating, crispy outside, tender inside. Par-cooking prevents the vegetables from drying out on the grill; the gram flour coating becomes golden and fragrant. The yoghurt adds richness and helps the spices cling; the lemon juice adds brightness. This is satisfying enough to serve as a starter or vegetarian main course, yet simple enough for a weeknight side. Serve warm or at room temperature.