Arroz de Pato

Arroz de Pato

Arroz de pato is Portugal's answer to paella, except baked rather than simmered, and the rice picks up a top crust of crisped chouriço at the end. You poach a whole duck for two hours with onion, bay, cloves and lemon peel until the meat falls apart, then strip the meat off the bones and put the bones back to extract another half hour of flavour from the stock. The strained duck stock cooks the rice, the shredded meat folds back in, and the whole thing goes into a baking dish under a layer of paper-thin chouriço slices. Twenty minutes in a hot oven and the top emerges deeply burnished, the chouriço slices crisp at their edges and slick at their centres. Sunday lunch, ideally with a heavy red from the Douro.

Portuguese 3 hours 25 minutes Serves6
Austrian Goulash

Austrian Goulash

The Viennese answer to its Hungarian cousin: slower, deeper, almost spoonable, the gravy as dark as treacle from hours of careful reduction rather than from any thickener. The defining technique is a one-to-one ratio of onion to beef by weight, which sounds wrong until you taste what it does. The onions cook down to a sweet, brown, almost-marmalade paste before the paprika and meat ever join them, and that paste is the body of the sauce. You use beef shin or chuck and simmer it very slowly in this paprika-onion base with stock, garlic, marjoram, caraway, vinegar and tomato until the gravy clings to every cube. Lard is the right fat. No flour. No quick fixes. Serve with bread dumplings (Semmelknödel), spätzle or thick slices of dark rye, and pickled cucumbers on the side to cut the richness. A bowl that warms you from the centre out on a winter night.

Austrian 2 hours 50 minutes Serves4-6
Bacalhau à Brás

Bacalhau à Brás

Bacalhau à Brás is the dish Portugal turns to when the salt cod, the onions and the eggs all need to find their place in one pan: scrambled together with a tangle of fine matchstick chips so the whole thing reads as somewhere between a hash and a loose carbonara. The salt cod needs the usual day or two of cold soaks to draw the salt down, then a brief simmer to soften it; the onions take their time in olive oil with a few smashed garlic cloves until almost jam-like; the matchstick chips (palha) are fried separately so they stay crisp. Everything comes together in a wide pan, the eggs are whisked in over a low heat, and you stop the moment the eggs coat the cod and potato like a sauce. Never let them set firm. Olives, parsley and a wedge of lemon at the table.

Portuguese 45 minutes Serves4
Bunjay-Style Curry Chicken

Bunjay-Style Curry Chicken

A dry curry rather than a saucy one, "bunjay" is Trinidadian patois for "fry-down", the technique of cooking meat in its own juices until the gravy completely disappears and the spices coat the surface of the meat in a sticky, glaze-like crust. The flavour is concentrated rather than diluted; nothing's been thinned with water or coconut milk, so what you taste is bone-in chicken, rendered chicken fat, and toasted spice. The spice mix is the East Indian Trinidadian signature: turmeric for colour and earth, roasted geera (toasted cumin, ground) for nuttiness, anchar masala for tang, regular curry powder for breadth. The pan oil splits and separates around the chicken at the end, which is the visual cue you're looking for. Smell when the curry powder hits hot oil is deeply aromatic, almost incense-like. Not difficult but it requires attention during the cook-down phase; if you walk away the curry burns onto the bottom of the pan. A Trinidadian household staple, eaten across the country with white rice and dhal, and a clean example of how Indian indentured labourers' descendants in the Caribbean evolved a distinct curry tradition over 150 years.

Trinidadian 2 hours 50 minutes Serves6
Cataplana de Marisco

Cataplana de Marisco

A cataplana is a hinged copper clamshell pan, and the seafood stew named after it is one of those dishes where the cookware does the work. You build a base of onions, peppers, sliced chouriço, smoked paprika, tomato and white wine in the bottom of the cataplana, then layer clams, mussels, prawns and chunks of firm white fish on top, clamp the lid shut, and steam it all for less than ten minutes. The lid lifts at the table to release a cloud of paprika-and-wine-scented steam, which is the entire point of the dish. If you do not have a cataplana, any wide pan with a tight lid does the same job. Coriander and lemon at the end, crusty bread for the broth, and vinho verde for everything else.

Portuguese 55 minutes Serves4
Chicken Tagine with Preserved Lemons

Chicken Tagine with Preserved Lemons

Chicken pieces are rubbed with a spice paste of garlic, ginger, saffron, turmeric, paprika, cumin, salt and olive oil; rest for 30 minutes. Onion sweats slowly in olive oil in a heavy tagine or casserole; the chicken nestles in skin-side-up; just enough water goes in to come halfway up the chicken. Lid on; gentle simmer for 50 minutes. Preserved lemon strips and green olives go in for the last 10 minutes. Off heat, scattered with fresh coriander and parsley.

North African 1 hour 35 minutes Serves4
Curry Smelts

Curry Smelts

Trinidadian comfort food that brings together the East Indian and Afro-Caribbean strands of Trini cookery in one pan: small whole fried fish (a West African and Caribbean coastal habit) drowned in a Trinidadian East Indian curry sauce. The fish are smelts, sardines or whitebait, whole, head-on, eaten with a small bite to remove the spine. Once fried they sit crisp; when the curry sauce hits, the outer crust softens slightly and absorbs the gravy while the centre stays meaty. The sauce is the dish's signature: roasted geera (dry-toasted cumin) gives a smoky, nutty depth that pre-ground supermarket cumin can't touch, anchar masala adds a fermented-tangy edge (it's the Trinidadian pickled-mango spice mix), and Caribbean curry powder rounds the warmth. Whole pierced Scotch bonnet scents without flooring. Smell when the spices bloom in hot oil is heavy and pungent in the best possible way. Not difficult but it's a two-pan dance, so timing matters. A daily-cookery dish across Trinidad and Tobago and the Indo-Trinidadian diaspora, eaten with steamed rice or with sada roti torn and used as a scoop.

Trinidadian 50 minutes Serves5
Kefta Tagine

Kefta Tagine

Beef or lamb mince is mixed with grated onion, garlic, fresh parsley and coriander, cumin, paprika, cinnamon, salt and pepper; shaped into small (3 cm) balls. A tomato sauce is built in the tagine: onion sweats in olive oil, garlic, cumin and paprika join, tomato passata and a stock cube simmer for 10 minutes. The meatballs are nestled in; cooked for 12 minutes turning once. Eggs are cracked into wells; lid on; 4 minutes more until the whites are just set. Scattered with parsley and served hot.

North African 45 minutes Serves4
Khoresh Bademjan

Khoresh Bademjan

Aubergines are peeled in stripes, sliced into 1 ½ cm-thick rounds (or 2 cm-thick long pieces), salted heavily on both sides and rested for 30 minutes to weep bitter juice. Patted dry and shallow-fried gold in sunflower oil. The base: onion fries in oil until deep gold; lamb cubes brown in; turmeric, cinnamon, salt and pepper toast briefly; tomato paste cooks for 2 minutes; water and yellow split peas join; everything simmers for 1 hour. Verjuice (or lemon juice), saffron-water and the fried aubergines go in for the last 30 minutes. Served over chelo rice.

Persian 2 hours 45 minutes Serves4
Khoresh Karafs

Khoresh Karafs

Lamb shoulder is browned in oil; sliced onion is softened to gold; turmeric and a pinch of cinnamon toast briefly; water covers; the pot simmers for 1 hour 15 minutes until tender. Meanwhile, lots of celery is sliced into 2 cm-long pieces and sautéed with parsley and mint over medium heat 8-10 minutes until fragrant and just softened. The celery-and-herb mix goes into the pot for the last 25 minutes. Saffron-water and lemon juice at the end. Salt to taste.

Persian 2 hours 10 minutes Serves4
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