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Bacalhau à Brás

Bacalhau à Brás

Bacalhau à Brás is the dish Portugal turns to when the salt cod, the onions and the eggs all need to find their place in one pan: scrambled together with a tangle of fine matchstick chips so the whole thing reads as somewhere between a hash and a loose carbonara. The salt cod needs the usual day or two of cold soaks to draw the salt down, then a brief simmer to soften it; the onions take their time in olive oil with a few smashed garlic cloves until almost jam-like; the matchstick chips (palha) are fried separately so they stay crisp. Everything comes together in a wide pan, the eggs are whisked in over a low heat, and you stop the moment the eggs coat the cod and potato like a sauce. Never let them set firm. Olives, parsley and a wedge of lemon at the table.

Portuguese 45 minutes Serves4
Tafelspitz

Tafelspitz

The Habsburg Sunday lunch, said to have been Emperor Franz Joseph's favourite dish, and still the proper-occasion centrepiece of any Viennese family table. You poach a whole 1.5 kg piece of beef rump cap very gently for two and a half to three hours in a stock built around onions, root vegetables and marrow bones, until the meat is fork-tender but still sliceable. The technique is the opposite of a roast: no browning, no sear, all the flavour pulled out gently into the broth and held in the slow-cooking beef. Two courses come from the one pot. The clarified broth comes to the table first, scattered with chives and served with semolina dumplings or the fine pancake strips called Frittaten. Then the beef itself is sliced and presented with apple-horseradish sauce, a sharp green chive sauce, crisp pan-roasted Bratkartoffeln and creamed spinach. A glass of cool grüner veltliner alongside; Sunday afternoon in front of you.

Austrian 3 hours 20 minutes Serves6