In season

May produce

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Chicken Bastilla

Chicken Bastilla

Chicken thighs poach with onion, saffron, ginger, cinnamon and orange-flower water until tender; the meat is shredded and the cooking liquid is reduced to a concentrated stock. Whisked eggs are scrambled gently into the reduced stock with the chicken, making a creamy, intensely savoury filling. Toasted blanched almonds are pulsed with sugar, cinnamon and a tablespoon of orange-flower water into a coarse sweet rubble. A round springform tin is layered with overlapping filo sheets brushed with butter; almond rubble goes down; chicken-and-egg goes on; more filo seals the top. Baked for 30 minutes at 200°C until deep gold. Dusted with icing sugar and finished with cinnamon stripes.

North African 1 hour 50 minutes Serves6
Doro Wat

Doro Wat

Ethiopia's national dish, the spiced chicken stew that turns up at every wedding, Easter feast and Christmas table, and the one dish a cook is judged on. The foundation is the onion - you cook it down slowly for nearly an hour into a deep dark base, and this is the step that decides whether the wat is great or merely acceptable. Berbere (the Ethiopian spice blend of chilli, fenugreek, ginger and a dozen others) and niter kibbeh (spiced clarified butter, the dish's defining fat) fold in. Chicken thighs and legs simmer in the deep red sauce, and hard-boiled eggs join late, scored with a knife so they take on the colour and the flavour. Eaten communally from a single platter, with injera flatbread torn into pieces to scoop the stew. No cutlery, no individual plates, hands clean before the meal.

Ethiopian 2 hours Serves4-6
Jerk Meatballs in Coconut Curry Sauce

Jerk Meatballs in Coconut Curry Sauce

Two strong Caribbean flavours pulled into a single one-pan dinner: jerk on the inside (in the meatballs), curry on the outside (in the sauce). The meatballs are pork rather than the more common beef, which suits jerk better, pork carries the allspice-and-Scotch-bonnet seasoning the way it was historically intended (the Maroons of eastern Jamaica originally jerked wild boar, not chicken). Around them sits a coconut-curry sauce: shallot, garlic, sweet bell peppers, Jamaican curry powder bloomed briefly in butter, then full-fat coconut milk to mellow everything into something almost ice-cream-rich. The two flavours sit alongside each other rather than fighting, the jerk reads spicy-savoury, the curry reads sweet-aromatic, and a bite that includes both is genuinely better than either alone. Smell is curry powder bloomed in coconut milk, deeply Caribbean. One of the easier dishes here, 50 minutes start to finish, all in one pan, and a modern Black-American food-blogger creation rather than a traditional Jamaican dish; the cross-pollination is the point.

Jamaican 50 minutes Serves4
Pork Pie

Pork Pie

Pork shoulder (uncured, fatty) and a small amount of bacon are chopped into 5 mm dice (not minced, the texture is key). Mixed with white pepper, mace, sage, salt and a touch of anchovy paste for umami. The hot-water-crust pastry: flour is mixed with hot water-and-lard mixture, kneaded warm into a pliable dough. Two-thirds of the dough lines a tall round tin (or is moulded freestanding around a glass jar); the filling is packed in tight; a lid of remaining dough is laid over the top with a 1 cm steam hole punched. Baked at 200°C for 30 min, then 160°C for another 60-75 min. Left to cool. A rich pork stock (made from trotters or with gelatin sheets) is poured through the steam hole while the pie is still warm. Refrigerated overnight to set the jelly. Sliced and eaten cold.

Snacks 3 hours 15 minutes Serves6
Sweet Potato Pie

Sweet Potato Pie

The sweet potatoes are roasted whole until the flesh collapses and the sugars caramelise around the seam - never boiled, which dilutes them. The flesh is whipped warm with butter, evaporated milk, eggs, brown sugar, cinnamon, nutmeg and a splash of bourbon (optional, but classical). Poured into a chilled all-butter shortcrust shell and baked low and slow until the centre sets with a faint wobble. Cooled to barely-warm and dusted with icing sugar, or topped with whipped cream.

Desserts 2 hours 45 minutes Serves8
Treacle Tart

Treacle Tart

Sweet shortcrust pastry: plain flour rubs with cold butter to breadcrumb texture; icing sugar adds sweetness; an egg yolk binds with a splash of water. Rests in the fridge 1 hour. The pastry is rolled, lined into a 22 cm fluted tart tin, pricked, chilled again, and blind-baked with baking beans for 15 min, then 5 more min uncovered. Filling: warm golden syrup, lemon zest and juice, fresh breadcrumbs from a day-old loaf, a beaten egg and a small pinch of ginger / cinnamon. Stirred together; poured into the blind-baked case. Baked at 180°C 25-30 min until set with a slight wobble. Cooled to warm; served with cold clotted cream.

Desserts 2 hours 5 minutes Serves8