
Dholl Puri
Mauritius's street flatbread: thin breads stuffed with seasoned ground yellow split peas, griddled hot and folded around bean curry.
Overview
Dholl puri is the bread, not the wrap. What you are making is a soft, lightly elastic flatbread with a stuffing of cooked, drained, finely ground yellow split peas seasoned with turmeric, cumin and a little salt. The dough is wrapped around the filling like a stuffed paratha, then rolled out paper-thin (a real Mauritian dholl puri vendor rolls them so thin you can read newsprint through them) and cooked dry on a hot tawa with just a brush of oil. The challenge is keeping the filling completely dry; any moisture and the dholl ruptures when you roll it. Mauritians eat dholl puri folded in half or quartered around a small spoonful each of cari gros pois (butter bean curry), rougaille (tomato sauce) and either a coriander satini or a fiery mazavaroo chilli paste. This recipe focuses on the flatbreads themselves with a short note on the typical filling so you can put together a proper plate at home. Difficulty is moderate: the dough handling takes practice but it is forgiving and a slightly thicker first attempt still tastes excellent.
Ingredients
Split-pea filling
- 200 g yellow split peas (toor or chana dal also work, but yellow split peas are traditional)
- 1 tsp ground turmeric
- 1 tsp ground cumin
- ¾ tsp salt
- ½ tsp freshly ground black pepper
Dough
- 400 g plain flour, plus extra for dusting
- ½ tsp ground turmeric
- ½ tsp salt
- 2 tbsp neutral oil
- 220 ml warm water (approx, add as needed)
For cooking
- 3-4 tbsp neutral oil, for brushing the tawa
Typical accompaniments (assemble on the side)
- Butter bean curry (cari gros pois)
- Rougaille tomato sauce
- Coriander satini (or mazavaroo chilli paste)
- Wedge of lime
Method
Stage 1 - Cook and dry the split peas
- Rinse the split peas in cold water until the water runs clear. Soak in plenty of cold water for 4 hours (or overnight).
- Drain and put the soaked peas in a saucepan with fresh cold water to cover by 2 cm. Bring to a boil, skim off any foam, and simmer 12-15 minutes until tender but not mushy; the peas should still hold their shape and not break when pressed between thumb and finger.
- Drain very thoroughly. Spread the peas on a tray lined with a clean tea towel and pat them dry. Let them air-dry 10-15 minutes. This is the most important step; wet filling tears the dholl puri.
- Tip the cooled peas into a food processor with the turmeric, cumin, salt and pepper. Pulse to a fine, dry, crumbly powder that just holds together when squeezed. Do not pulse to a paste; if your peas were too wet, the texture will go gluey. Set aside.
Stage 2 - Make the dough
- Mix the flour, turmeric and salt in a wide bowl. Add the 2 tbsp oil and rub through with your fingers.
- Pour in the warm water gradually, mixing as you go, until you have a soft, slightly sticky dough. You may not need all of the water.
- Turn out and knead 6-8 minutes until smooth and elastic. The dough should feel softer than a roti dough, closer to a pizza dough.
- Cover with a damp cloth and rest 20 minutes.
Stage 3 - Stuff and shape
- Divide the dough into 8 equal pieces (around 80 g each). Roll each into a smooth ball.
- Take one ball, flatten it in your palm to a disc about 8 cm across, with the edges slightly thinner than the middle.
- Place 2 heaped tbsp of the split-pea powder in the centre. Gather the edges of the dough up over the filling and pinch firmly to seal into a parcel. Roll it gently between your palms to even it out, then flatten very lightly. Repeat with the rest.
- Rest the stuffed balls under a cloth 10 minutes; this lets the dough relax so it rolls without splitting.
Stage 4 - Roll out
- Dust a clean surface lightly with flour. Place one stuffed ball, sealed-side down, and dust the top.
- Roll out gently from the centre outwards, turning a quarter-turn between each pass, into a thin round about 22-24 cm across. Pressure should be even and light; if filling pokes through, dust a bit of flour over the tear and keep rolling.
- Set the rolled dholl puri on a tray dusted with flour. Do not stack them or they will stick.
Stage 5 - Cook on the tawa
- Heat a flat tawa, crepe pan or large frying pan over medium-high heat for 2 minutes until properly hot.
- Lay a rolled dholl puri onto the dry pan. Cook 30-40 seconds until small bubbles appear on the surface and the underside has light brown spots.
- Flip with a wide spatula. Brush a teaspoon of oil over the cooked surface and around the edge. Cook 30 seconds.
- Flip again, brush the other side with a little oil, and cook a final 20-30 seconds. The dholl puri should be soft, pliable and lightly speckled, never crisp.
- Stack the cooked dholl puris on a plate covered with a clean cloth so they stay soft and warm. Repeat with the rest.
Notes
- Dry filling is everything: any moisture in the split-pea powder is the single most common reason dholl puris tear. Cook the peas just-tender, drain hard, dry on a cloth, and pulse to a powder, not a paste.
- Soft dough, not stiff: a stiff dough resists rolling and tears the filling open. The dough should feel slightly tacky to the hand but not gluey.
- Tawa heat: medium-high is right. Too cool and the bread dries out before colouring; too hot and the outside browns before the inside cooks through.
- Keep them soft after cooking: an upturned bowl or clean tea towel over the stack traps the steam and keeps the dholl puris pliable for serving.
Variations
Chana dal version: Some Mauritian cooks use chana dal (split chickpeas) for a nuttier, slightly coarser filling. Cooking method is the same; soak overnight. Spicier filling: A pinch of ground roasted cumin and a tiny pinch of cayenne in the filling powder gives a sharper edge.
Serving
Lay a warm dholl puri flat on a plate. Spoon a strip of butter bean curry down the centre, a spoon of rougaille, and a small dab of coriander satini or chilli paste. Fold in half or quarter and eat by hand. A wedge of lime on the side cuts through the spice.
Storage
- Best eaten fresh from the pan. Will keep soft 4-5 hours wrapped in a clean cloth at room temperature.
- Refrigerated dholl puris go stiff; reheat 20 seconds per side on a dry tawa to soften back up.
- Freeze cooked and cooled dholl puris stacked between sheets of greaseproof paper for up to 1 month; defrost and reheat on a dry pan.
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