
Warak Enab
Lebanon's stuffed vine leaves: leaves rolled around a spiced lamb-and-rice filling, packed tight in a pot and slow-braised in lemon and stock.
Overview
Vine leaves blanch briefly to soften; veins are trimmed. A filling of short-grain rice, lamb mince, finely chopped tomato, parsley, mint, allspice, cinnamon, salt, pepper and olive oil mixes raw. Each leaf rolls around a teaspoon of filling into a 7 cm cylinder. Packed tight in a wide pot lined with sliced potato and lamb bones, weighted with a plate, cooked in a lemon-and-stock liquid for 75 minutes on the lowest heat. Inverted onto a platter at the end.
Ingredients
Vine leaves
- 60 fresh vine leaves (or 1 jar 500 g brined leaves - rinsed)
Filling
- 300 g short-grain rice (rinsed, not pre-cooked)
- 400 g lamb mince
- 2 tomatoes (medium, very finely diced)
- 1 onion (medium, very finely chopped)
- 4 tablespoons fresh parsley (chopped)
- 3 tablespoons fresh mint (chopped)
- 4 garlic cloves (crushed)
- 2 tablespoons tomato puree
- 1 ½ teaspoons ground allspice
- ½ teaspoon ground cinnamon
- ½ teaspoon ground black pepper
- 1 ½ teaspoons salt
- 80 ml olive oil
Base layer (prevents scorching)
- 2 potatoes (medium, sliced 5 mm)
- A few lamb bones (or rib pieces, optional - add depth to the liquid)
Cooking liquid
- 3 lemons (juice)
- 4 tablespoons olive oil
- 2 garlic cloves (smashed)
- 1 ½ teaspoons salt
- 1 litre hot chicken stock (or water)
To serve
- 200 g Greek yogurt
- 1 lemon (cut into wedges)
Method
Stage 1 - Vine leaves
- If fresh: blanch in boiling water 1 minute; drain.
- If jarred: rinse in 3 changes of cold water to remove brine.
- Trim the stem and any thick central vein from each leaf.
Stage 2 - Filling
- Combine all filling ingredients in a wide bowl. Mix thoroughly with hands. Cover; rest 15 minutes.
Stage 3 - Roll
- Lay a vine leaf flat, vein side up, stem end towards you.
- Place 1 generous teaspoon of filling in a line near the stem end.
- Fold the stem end up over the filling, fold the two side flaps in over the filling, then roll up away from you into a tight cylinder 6-7 cm long.
- Repeat for all leaves (50-55 rolls).
Stage 4 - Pack
- Line the bottom of a wide heavy pot with sliced potato (and lamb bones if using).
- Arrange the rolls seam-side down in tight concentric circles. Pack snugly.
- Stack rows if needed.
Stage 5 - Liquid
- Whisk lemon juice, olive oil, garlic, salt with the hot stock.
- Pour over the rolls - should just cover.
Stage 6 - Weight and cook
- Place a heatproof plate directly on top of the rolls to weight them down.
- Cover the pot.
- Bring to a simmer; reduce heat to the lowest setting.
- Cook 1 hour 15 minutes to 1 hour 30 minutes, until rice is tender and the leaves are soft.
Stage 7 - Rest
- Rest off the heat 15 minutes, covered.
Stage 8 - Invert and serve
- Carefully invert the pot onto a wide platter (or lift the rolls out with tongs and arrange).
- Drizzle some of the cooking liquid over the top.
- Serve with yogurt and lemon wedges.
Notes
- Vegetarian version: Skip the lamb; double the rice, add 200 g cooked chickpeas, and use olive oil instead of stock - the result is "warak enab b'zeit" (vegetarian).
- Pack tightly: Loosely packed rolls float and unwind. Snug enough that they support each other; not so tight they have no room for the rice to swell.
- Vine leaf source: Fresh leaves from a Middle Eastern grocer (in season) are tender; jarred leaves are reliable year-round.
Storage
- Refrigerate 4 days. Better day 2.
- Freezes 2 months.
More like this
Kofta Burger
Lebanese kofta, sometimes spelled kafta, is minced lamb (often with a little beef) seasoned with grated onion, parsley and the warm spice blend known variously as baharat, sabaa baharat or seven-spice: allspice, black pepper, cinnamon, cloves, nutmeg, cumin and coriander. Traditionally it is moulded around flat metal skewers and grilled over charcoal at a mangal, where it sears fast and stays juicy. Shaping the same mince into a patty for a flatbread sandwich is a natural extension and one you will find in Beirut bakeries and Levantine takeaways from Sydney to Detroit. What makes this burger taste authentic and not just a "Middle-Eastern-spiced lamb burger" is the grated onion: pulled across a box grater so it dissolves into the mince and seasons every gram from the inside, releasing moisture as it cooks. Squeezing out the excess liquid first keeps the patty from falling apart. The sauce is a loosened tahini-yoghurt, tart with lemon and garlic, and the contrast comes from sumac-dusted onions whose sharp, almost berry-like sourness cuts through the lamb's richness. Wrap it in toasted khobz or a soft brioche, depending on the occasion. Difficulty is low. The only skill is restraint with the mince: knead just enough to bind, no more.
Sindhi Biryani
Mutton on the bone marinates for 2 hours in yogurt, ginger-garlic paste, ground spices (red chilli, turmeric, coriander, cumin, garam masala), mint, coriander and salt. Sliced onions fry slowly in oil to deep gold, then crispy, and drain on paper (some go in the marinade, some on top of the biryani). The marinated mutton browns; tomatoes go in; the meat braises for 45 minutes until tender. Basmati rice parboils with whole spices and salt to 70% done; drains. The layering: mutton at bottom, half the rice, fried onions and prunes and green chillies, the remaining rice, more onions, saffron-milk and ghee on top. Dum cook for 25 minutes sealed.
Riz a Djej
A whole chicken poaches with onion, cinnamon, cardamom and bay 45 minutes; chicken comes out, stock is strained. Mince (lamb or beef) browns hard with onion, baharat, cinnamon and allspice. Basmati rice toasts in ghee with the mince, then cooks absorption-style in the chicken stock for 18 minutes. Plated with the rice on the bottom, the mince mixed through, shredded poached chicken on top, and toasted pine nuts, almonds and raisins scattered over.
Adana Kebab
Lamb shoulder and lamb tail fat (or extra fatty trim) chop fine with a heavy knife or zırh (curved blade), proper Adana is hand-cut, never minced through a grinder. The texture has visible pieces of meat and fat the size of small peas. Knead with salt, ground sumac, hot red Aleppo / Maraş chilli flakes (acı biber) and crushed garlic for 6-8 minutes until tacky and clinging to the bowl. Chill for 2 hours. Press a fistful onto a wide flat skewer, working from the centre outward, shaping a 25 cm × 3 cm flat sausage with finger-tip dimples down the length. Grill over hot charcoal 5-6 minutes per side. Slide off skewer onto warm lavash. Rest for 2 minutes; serve.